…and Away We Go!

We left Sami Monday morning for the 45 minute drive to the Argostoli Airport. The  Greek sunshine is excellent for flowers –  especially roses. We will miss the scent of these glorious flowers in gardens around town – often we saw roses mixed with lilies, geraniums or other flowers.

We will also miss the sunsets – each evening a different hue of pink, yellow, or blue.

Cats! There are many cats in Kefalonia – some are sleek and some are scruffy but the locals seem to make sure that they are well-fed. They mysteriously appear under any table at a seafood restaurant.

On the way out of town we passed the Odysseus Theme Park – how did we miss this attraction?!

We got a very good deal on our rental car from Rent Car Kefalonia but there is an extra charge if it’s dusty when it’s returned. We made a quick stop for gas and a car wash.

We returned the car in plenty of time to make our flight to Athens. A two-hour flight delay and a 50-minute Metro ride into the city, made for a late arrival to our hotel. We are staying in a quieter neighborhood near a couple of museums that we are interested in seeing. The museums were closed today but we will still have time to visit them before we leave on Friday.

We’ve made a smooth transition from the laid back islands to the bustling city. All is well!

 

We have had a wonderful time visiting some of main towns and villages on the island of Kefalonia over the past couple of weeks. We are happy with our decision to spend more time here rather than in some of the larger cities on the mainland. Yesterday we went to the small archeology museum in Sami. There are excellent displays of jewelry, pottery, grave goods, mosaics, and other artifacts found nearby.

From a video at the museum, we learned about the Acropolis on the hill above Sami. One guide to Kefalonia describes it this way:  “The ruins of the Ancient Acropolis of Sami can be found in Lapitha Mountain, over the port town of Sami. It can be reached by a series of scenic trails, which also connects a number of neighboring Roman remains.” The trails are extensive and a sign posted on a tree at the beginning of the trail suggested that for more extensive hikes, a guide is recommended to avoid getting lost, or having problems wild dogs or snakes. However, we’ve been on the island for two weeks, and have yet to encounter a wild dog or a snake, so the risk seems low. We plunged ahead and were rewarded with beautiful scenery in every direction.

Initially, the path was rocky and dense with vegetation but as up got closer to the top, it opened into a field of wildflowers.

There are abundant wildflowers, many bees,  and Larry found patches of parsley and other herbs.

Fortunately, a paved road goes up the mountain providing access to the extensive trails at the top. It was a good Sunday afternoon adventure.

Tomorrow we leave the island on a short Aegean Airlines flight to Athens. We are already thinking of a plan to return to Kefalonia one day soon.

 

 

 

The earthquake on Larry’s birthday was quite something…the  apartment manager in Lixouri told us that it happens quite a lot! For us, it was a unique experience and one that we won’t soon forget. But, we have moved on and are now in Sami for our last stay in Kefalonia (though it’s sometimes spelled Cephalonia.) The drive from Lixouri to Sami was about one hour with beautiful vistas and wildflowers along the way.

Sami is our favorite town so far with tavernas along the seashore and tables decorated with fresh oregano, birds of paradise and roses (in the background below.)

There are lovely places to relax along the water…after a long walk we sat and watched the ferries arrive and depart. At this self service cafe, we order our drinks at the bar and carry them to our table. This pink aperitivo is Sprite with grenadine syrup…a no-alcohol substitute for Campari and soda.

We think that the ferry below is arriving from Ithaca – an island we want to visit, though it may not happen this trip.

Searching for a recommended restaurant, we found this folk art garden in a field along the way.

Everyone tells us that we are traveling in Kefalonia at the perfect time…excellent cool and sunny weather, few crowds, lower prices and locals happy to have us here. We’ll be here one more day before we leave this relaxed town to travel to the bustling city, Athens.

May 1 is a significant holiday in Greece AND, it’s Larry’s Birthday. This morning we were awakened by a jolt…a 3.2 magnitude earthquake in the Ionian Sea about 7 km north of us. Later, we felt a 2.9 magnitude aftershock. We’re calling it a BirthQuake in honor of Larry’s special day. This area is known for earthquakes – there was a major one here in 1953 that destroyed the town. Now, buildings here must be constructed with special reinforcements and no taller than two stories. The power stayed on but the water was off for a while. For now, all is well.

The city is quiet because of the holiday and we will leave here later this morning to drive to our next stop, Sami.

Yesterday we set out to visit some wineries on the Kefalonian Wine Road. Kefalonia is known for its Robola white wine. We grabbed some spinach pastries, fruit, and cookies and we were on our way. In spite of the hours posted on the sign outside the winery, it was closed.  With no one around, we took advantage of the shady picnic area behind the winery for a nice picnic lunch.

Our next stop was the to a nearby Kipouria Monastery – also closed – but located on a hillside with a spectacular view of the Ionian Sea.

There are sometimes surprises along the way! Goats on the road…

Back in town, we went for a walk along the sea and visited a peaceful cemetery. There was an attendant at the entrance selling wreaths, candles, and flowers.

We spent 4 nights in Lixouri – our time in Kefalonia is leisurely. Today we will drive to Sami to spend 4 nights, then Monday (May 5), we will fly back to Athens for 4 nights. From there, we will fly to Lyon, France for one week before returning home. Hoping all is well with you wherever you are!

Lixouri is just across the water from Argostoli – the town where we began our travels in Kefalonia two weeks ago. The guidebook describes Lixouri as a town that’s a little drab but it has good restaurants, quiet hotels, and is favored as a base for those wanting to explore this region of the island. We agree! It’s quiet and we’ve been very relaxed here. On the weekend, the town square, lined with shops and restaurants, was filled with families enjoying a sunny day. Off-season weekdays, the square is quiet.

A walk just outside the town center, gives us a view of the sea and landscape.

We are eating a little too well here…large portions of souvlaki with either  sausages, chicken, or pork are served with abundant fries, gilled pita bread, and tzatziki sauce.

Sometimes we opt for mezes (small plates) of Greek salad, eggplant dip, and/or zucchini fritters.

Our small apartment is on the top floor in a building not far from the main square and it’s a good deal at $112.00 per night. We have a view of the sea in the distance and two balconies – one in front and one in back. Every apartment we’ve stayed in has had a washing machine and a clothes rack with clothes  pins so we can do laundry as needed. They dry very quickly in the abundant sunshine.

One quirk of this apartment is that if we take the elevator, we have to walk through the waiting room of a Cardiology Clinic. Usually we opt for the stairs to circumvent the clinic.

Late yesterday afternoon, just for fun, we took a 20-minute ferry to Argostoli and back. The sea was a little rough but the ferry ride smooth. We were just in time to see the setting sun.

Back in the apartment, we have a distant view of the landscape.

We went to the nearby village of Magganos for lunch and ended up on a less traveled route to Fiskardo. Larry began quoting the Robert Frost poem and we decided that this was the theme of this trip.

Another winding road in search of a restaurant led us to a gorgeous beach – the restaurant was closed but we were two of six people on the beach. Surprises around many corners!

Back on the more frequently traveled main road, we had lunch at Picnic – a very good restaurant.

Larry enjoyed his lamb burger;

and the Chicken Salad with dried cranberries and pine nuts was great as well.

Back in Fiskardo, we checked out the Roman Cemetery at the edge of town. I met a woman there named Anneliese – a Dutch woman now living in the U.K.  I admired her sense of adventure as she is driving a small camper van around this island on her own – she says that she does this every spring.

Today we’re driving south to Lixouri for a four night stay. But first, we had to try a croissant from the just-opened-for-the-season-today bakery. The chocolate croissants are huge and will keep us going for most of the day!

 

 

We made an attempt to find  the walking path through the trees and over the hill to the nearby beach, but eventually gave up and drove instead. The beach is small and pebbly but the water is ultra-blue and clear. There was a chilly breeze that made it cool for swimming but some people were enjoying the sunny day. The green building on the left is a changing station.

It was a bit chilly for us, but as the weather warms up, we may try for some beach time another day.

We have one more full day in Fiskardo. It’s a lovely small village and in hindsight, 4 nights here was too many – especially off-season when things are closed. The in-town bakery here will open for the season tomorrow.  We have also found that the better restaurants are in nearby villages so we drive a few miles out of town for dinner. In spite of that, we stay busy exploring, reading, and learning more about Greek culture.

Last evening, we watched sheep grazing under the olive trees,

…as the sun began to set.

Sunday will pack up and drive south to our next stop, the port town of Lixouri.

 

Thirty minutes away from Fiskardo on the northwest coast of Kefalonia is the small village of Assos. It is known for its colorful houses, beaches, and a Venetian fortress that overlooks the city. From above the city we can see the town below.

A couple of restaurants are open but it’s still early season and things are quiet here. We grabbed a gyro at a stand called “The Cheeky Monkey”, checked out the bakery and the local real estate before we made our way back to Fiskardo.

Back in Fiskardo, we followed a hiking trail to the ruins of an early Byzantine Basilica;

From there we followed a narrow thistle-lined path toward the sea;

which led us to a well-preserved Venetian Lighthouse.

This is the time of year when goat herders move the herd to its spring location. The men guiding these guys had a tough time keep in the herd “in line”.

We are relaxed, happy and eating very well. The island of Kefalonia is beautiful!

Poros is a small town and we were surprised by how much we enjoyed our three night stay there, but it was time to move on. Wednesday morning we packed up and drove through the countryside and over the mountains on our way to Fiskardo. The views of the sea, the mountains and the spiky cypress trees were stunning- all things we wouldn’t be able to experience without Larry’s fearless driving skills.

The drive to Fiskardo was about one hour and twenty minutes…nothing is very far away on this small island. We arrived at our apartment around 2:00 and we were met by Mary, who showed us the ins and outs of the apartment.

It’s amazing how small spaces are transformed into very nice apartments. This one isn’t perhaps as cozy as the apartment in Poros and but it’s very nice and not expensive, mainly because it’s off-season. Many shops and restaurants are closed in town, though shop owners are at work refreshing paint to begin opening for the season which typically begins after Easter.  Some describe Fiskardo as “posh”; a place where movie stars and people with yachts hang out. The town is small and compact, and there there are many hiking trails nearby but we’re not sure why it’s more special compared to other small towns on the island with lovely harbors.

Last night we drove to the next small village for dinner because so many restaurants are closed in town now. We have three more nights here and will use Fiskardo as a base to explore the northern part of the island.

As we tend to do, we’ve reworked our itinerary and made changes so that we can spend more time on the island of Kefalonia – it’s a beautiful island!

 

Poros is a small town on the southeast side of Kefalonia. It’s really beautiful here and we’ve had very nice weather…warm in the day with mild sea breezes in the evening. We are staying at Blue Sky Apartments right across from the sea and ferry port. Several times a day the large ferry (yellow and blue ship below) goes from here to Kyllini on the mainland.

The area around Poros is distinguished by thick green Mediterranean vegetation, deep canyons, white pebble beaches and natural springs.

One local business, Remetzo, took advantage of the setting and created a coffee shop in a cave.

And the view of the rocky sea is from the cafe is spectacular.

Yesterday we had another travel kerfuffle…on the way back from the nearby town Skala, we had a flat tire – on a narrow road too far from town to walk for assistance.

The jack was oddly designed and difficult to position. A local man and his wife stopped to help but he gave it his best effort but had no luck and left. To our great fortune, a man and woman from the U.K. on a hike with their two small children walked by, and the husband was a mechanical whiz. It took him just a few minutes to position the jack, remove the tire, replace it with the spare and we were all on our merry way! We were so grateful! The tire has been repaired by a local gas station and the cost was only 5 Euro! We were very lucky. People here have been consistently kind and helpful.

Today we followed a rocky path to a UNESCO site, the Waterfalls of Gradou.

The vegetation along the way was pretty and varied.

It’s about 1.4 kilometers to hike and the path is rocky and steep but worth the effort. When we arrived, there were a few people there swimming in the deep pools of water at the base of the falls.

We’re having a relaxed stay here and the people are so kind. A little known fact about Larry is that he loves kumquats. As just one example of Greek hospitality, we woke up this morning and found a bowl of kumquats on our window sill.  The Mom of our host left these!