Thinking of You Folks Back Home!

We are watching the weather forecasts from afar and hoping that everyone has plenty of supplies on hand and that the heat stays on through the coldest temperatures. We worry about trees or large limbs falling on our house, but there isn’t much we can do from here, so we’ll carry on with our explorations of Mexico City.

Yesterday we walked 20 minutes to the Museo National de Anthropologia. Our guide book describes it as having “one of the finest archeological collections in the world.” There are an enormous number of artifacts in this museum. We spent most of the day here, and there’s still  more to see .

Entrance to the Museo de National de Anthropologie

As you enter the museum, there is an impressive multi-media presentation that reviews the pre-Columbian history of Mexico. Once inside, there is a huge courtyard with a giant fountain.

Museum Courtyard

Each one of the twelve salons on the museum’s two floor displays artifacts from a specific region or culture. Labels are mostly in Spanish and dense with details. Objects include statues, jewelry, weapons, figurines, and pottery. Below are a few of them:

Dios Del Agua (God of Water)
Maize (Corn) God

Just outside the museum there are small courtyards with objects,

Museum Courtyard

and many pathways with beautiful plants local to the region.

Bird of Paradise
Calla Lily

We still have much to see here so we’re off to explore some more. The skies are sunny and the high temperature will be 71 degrees. We picked a good time to be away.

Exploring the Neighborhoods of Mexico City

We arrived to Mexico City from San Miguel de Allende late Monday afternoon. The bus station in San Miguel is compact, clean and easy to navigate. The ETN Turistar Bus Line is plush with comfortable wide seats and on-board bathrooms which made it an easy 3.5 hour ride.

Bus Station San Miguel de Allende

We arrived at our apartment in the Polanco neighborhood of the city via Uber – the ride was a good introduction to the grand scale of the city. Our apartment at the Grand Polanco Residencial is very nice and in the part of the city that a young traveler on YouTube described as the “neighborhood where Grandpa and Grandma stay. “  To us it feels safe and convenient as there is a metro stop nearby and a Walmart grocery store just a couple of blocks away.

It has taken us a couple of days to adapt to the higher altitude and low air quality, but our goal for this first visit to CDMX is to explore the various neighborhoods so we are doing it at a slower pace.

The first challenge has been to learn about the Metro system. We purchased a Metro Card but had difficulty loading pesos on the card so we could tap our card and ride. Finally today we were successful but not without a few hiccups. The Metro system is expansive but not too difficult to navigate, (thanks to Larry’s excellent navigation skills). The trains arrive at regular intervals so we don’t have to wait long when we miss one.

Mexico City Metro

In this massive city, most people depend on the public transit system, so the trains are very busy.. Train cars are crowded and we don’t see many tourist-types onboard, as many opt to take taxis or Uber around the city. For us, it’s a great budget option at 5 pesos per ride (29 U.S. cents). Each time the train stops, the car “jerks” a bit so that everyone moves in unison to the side. It makes us smile, but locals are used to it.

Moving Through the CDMX Metro

Our first day (Tuesday), we went to Centro Historico’s main square, the Zocalo. It’s frenetic and overwhelming. Maybe not the best choice for our first full day in the city but we survived. The photo below doesn’t do it justice but gives the idea of the grand scale.

The Zocalo

We toured the Cathedral Metropolitana – Latin America’s largest Cathedral. Back at our home base, we had a nice dinner at Cafe Toscano nearby.

Cafe Toscano

Our destination today was in Roma. It’s a pleasant neighborhood for strolling. The Plaza Rio De Janeiro was our first stop. The lovely park is being renovated but the copy of Michelangelo’s David is impressive.

Plaza Rio De Janerio

Our destination in Roma Norte was for lunch at Panaderia Rosetta. It’s a very popular place and a bit of a wait, but we were happy with our meal.

Panaderia Rosetta

Not too far away is the bustling Mercado Medellin. A shopper can find almost anything there. Including produce;

Produce-Mercado Medellin

and flowers.

Flowers- Mercado Medellin

One could buy fruits, meats, poultry, spices, and just about anything else imaginable.

At the end of our explorations we ended up in the Condesa neighborhood…one that we will return to. A surprise rain shower had us hustling to the nearest Metro stop and we have returned to home base. Mexico City is  filled with surprises and we are looking forward to new adventures tomorrow.

City Sidewalks in CDMX

Sunday in San Miguel de Allende

We have been fortunate to have the expertise of Stan for our first visit to San Miguel. He has led us on tours around the city, driven us to far away places, met us at the Saturday market, and suggested shops and restaurants that we should try. We don’t have to go many steps before someone stops Stan to say “hello”! He is an important member of this community.

Stan, Sharon and Larry

Late yesterday evening, Stan sent a text suggesting that we all go to the Botanico El Charco del Ingenio today. We did just that! Stan drove us to the gardens through the sometimes narrow and very hilly streets of San Miguel. Along the way, he pointed out important landmarks and views of the city outside of the central area where we are staying.

The gardens cover 67 hectares above a monumental ravine known as El Charo del Ingenio.

El Charo del Ingenio

The botanical collection is made up of various species of cacti, agaves, and other succulents. Well-marked trails weave through the property with many examples of succulents and other plants that thrive in this climate.

Cacti
Tiny Bloom
Succulent

On the way back to town, we stopped for delicious seafood tacos at Baja Tacos in the city center.

Baja Tacos

Today is our last day in San Miguel and we’ve had a wonderful time. For readers and writers, San Miguel de Allende hosts a world class Writers’ Conference and Literary Festival this February. One of the main speakers will be Abraham Verghese. Below is a link to all that happening:

San Miguel Writers’ Conference and Literary Festival, 2026 

Tomorrow we will take a bus to Mexico City for a 2 week-long stay. We are looking forward to our stay in one of the largest cities in the world.

For now, Adios, San Miguel de Allende – we’ve had a great time!

 

Around Town

It’s Saturday and the city is buzzy. We took Stan’s advice and walked to the Mercado SANO in another part of town. Below is a photo of one section of the Food Court where we bought pastries, coffee and tacos with the shells being pressed and grilled right there. The space is filled with a jumble of expats who live here full time or for a month or two in the winter season.

Mercado SANO

In addition to food items, locals (both temporary and permanent) come to buy fruits, vegetables, fresh baked bread, herbs, spices and more. There are musicians playing music from the 70’s and lots of camaraderie.  It’s a happening place in the Guadiana neighborhood of San Miguel.

Around town we see these giant puppets called mojigangas. Many over 15 feet tall, they symbolize joy and are used in weddings and/or other fiestas. They have been used in celebrations in San Miguel for more than 100 years.

Mojiganga in San Miguel

From the market, we went to Fabrica La Aurora, a former textile mill turned into a large art complex filled with galleries, antique shops, and artist studios. We spent several hours wandering through the complex.

We wander around town looking in shop windows,

Shop Window San Miguel

viewing colorful facades,

San Miguel Facade

And viewing the  Perroquia de San Miguel Arcangel from different vantage points.

Perroquia de San Miguel Arcangel

Our new friend Stan tells us that if you see an open door…”go inside!” And we do. This large shop has pots and plants that we’d love to bring home.

Ceramic Shop

We are enjoying weather that is warmer than home, though the mornings are chilly. Evenings are nice and we enjoy more wandering and sitting in the main square listening to dueling mariachi bands. It’s a happening place!

Stars in San Miguel de Allende

A Tour With A Local

Friends from Atlanta suggested that we contact a college friend of theirs during our visit to San Miguel de Allende. Stan has lived here for about 9 years and he graciously showed us some of the highlights around town.

Our first stop was to the Centro Cultural El Negromante. It’s a center for art exhibitions, classes, and studios in a converted convent. It is currently undergoing some renovations that will be soon complete.

Cultural Center

It’s a wonderful space for art and learning.

Mural in the Cultural Center
Sala de Murals Siqueriros

The Sala de Murals is described here: “One of the most fascinating features of El Nigromante is the mural by David Alfaro Siqueiros, one of Mexico’s most iconic muralists. Though unfinished, the mural is a masterpiece of revolutionary art and serves as a powerful example of Mexico’s rich artistic history.”

Next we walked to the Instituto Allende……a space for events, art workshops, and lifelong learning programs. The mural in the background makes a great backdrop for the geranium.

Geranium

Stan walked us through several neighborhoods that we wouldn’t have likely discovered on our own. Our next stop was…Parc Benito Juarez. This beautiful sculpture is a waste receptacle. Saturday morning they hold Tai Chi classes in the park.  Also nearby is a Saturday market called Mercado SANO. We will go there tomorrow.

Parc Benito Juarez

A lot of life in San Miguel takes place on the rooftops. Stan took us to several that gave us excellent views of the city. This is from the rooftop of Hotel Casa Correo.

Rooftop View

A large, refreshing glass of fresh squeezed orange  juice was just the refreshment after our tour of the city.

OJ in San Miguel

San Miguel has so many special places and we were fortunate to see it with an excellent guide. Thanks to Robey and Gary for the introduction! We understand why so many people recommend San Miguel as a destination. It has wonderful learning centers, parks, markets, art galleries, and friendly locals.

San Miguel de Allende – A First Look

An Aeromexico flight and a shuttle from the airport bought us to the center of San Miguel de Allende in about 6 hours total. One of the first things we noticed was the cobblestone streets which makes for a bumpy ride but we had a good driver who delivered us safely to Hotel La Morada. It is centrally located and just a short walk from the city’s famous landmark; Parroquia de San Miguel.

Parroquira de San Miguel Arcangel
Evening Street View

In a nutshell, here are some things we’ve learned about the city so far:

  • San Miguel is located in Central Mexico in the state of Guanajuato and located about 4 hours north of Mexico City.
  • It’s a UNESCO Word Heritage Site.
  • It’s a hub for artists, writers, and expats – mainly from the U.S. and Canada.
  • The elevation is 6,200 feet which makes for mild days and cool evenings year-round.
  • The city is very walkable but cobblestoned and a little hilly, so good walking shoes are important.

This morning we found a good coffee shop, Cafe 20trece with an owner who is passionate about locally produced coffee, chocolate and honey.

Cafe 20trece

We also found an excellent pastry shop called Panio.

Panio in San Miguel

It’s early days here, but it is a fascinating place…one that we are excited to explore. There are colorful parks (like the one below) all around town plus many intriguing shops, restaurants, and cultural sites.

The weather is mild and all is well…we are off for more adventure in this colorful city.

Mexico!

We don’t always do a good job of reporting our safe arrival home at the end of a trip but, we arrived home from our travels in Italy in mid-October. We had a fun holiday season with family and friends and now we’re looking forward to our next adventure.

Atlanta Botanical Garden

In search of warmer weather, we are leaving today on a winter excursion to Mexico – specifically, San Miguel de Allende and Mexico City. Both are places that we’ve been interested in for quite some time and we decided that it’s finally time for us check them out! We are hoping for weather that’s  a little warmer than Atlanta, a chance to practice our Spanish, and delicious food.

The Leon Airport Mexico near Guanajuato, Mexico is a four-hour flight from Atlanta and about 1.5 hours from San Miguel de Allende. Our plan is pretty simple…we will spend 5 nights in San Miguel and then take a bus to Mexico City early next week. We will stay in the Polanco neighborhood for two weeks.

Guide to San Miguel
Guide to Mexico City

We’ll be back home in early February. We are looking forward to exploring two new destinations and we’ll post a photo or two every few days. Sending our best wishes! Adios!

Sharon and Larry

Wandering Around Torino

We’ve gotten used to staying in smaller, compact cities. Now in Italy’s fourth-largest city Torino, it feels a bit overwhelming but not in a bad way. We are very happy with our somewhat funky, somewhat gritty neighborhood. From our bedroom window we look over the rooftop of a church.

The Church Next Door

The streets are busy with traffic and just around the corner is a piazza with a large statue. The piazza is lined with small restaurants nice for a casual meal, a coffee or an aperitivo.

Piazza Nearby

The skies have been gray and the haze we experienced in Cremona turns out to be an air quality problem for the entire region – not something we expected being so near the Alps. In spite of that, we have been content with wandering around the city. There are some nice walkways and the leaves on the trees are beginning to change.

Torino Walkway

So far, we haven’t visited a museum or a palazzo in this city.  We did go inside the Duomo where the Shroud of Turin is now kept.

Turin Cathedral

We learned that “The resting place of the Shroud is within Turin Cathedral (Piazza San Giovanni), in the last chapel of the left aisle, under the Royal Tribune. Under normal circumstances, the Shroud cannot be observed directly, as it is preserved within a special “conservation case”, which in turn is enclosed in a large metal box.”

Pasticcerie are on every corner.  We like to window shop for pastries and think that these crostatas look more like homemade than some displayed in fancier shops.

Crostatas

Italian food is wonderful, but often we find that restaurants in many smaller towns are limited to traditional Italian food. Torino is unusual in that it has embraced many types of foreign cuisine, and is willing to fuse traditional Italian food with influences from abroad. In our neighborhood, we have a restaurants serving Spanish, Chinese, Japanese, and Argentinian food, as well as many variations of Italian cuisine.

Nearby is a seafood restaurant (A6 Sciamadda) with excellent calamari;  a ravioli shop (Ravolihouse Torino) where you can choose your own ravioli shape, filling, and sauce; a restaurant that specializes in baked potatoes with exotic fillings (Poormanger); and a very good Chinese noodle shop which we liked a lot. Last night we opted for a wood-fired pizza from Speedy Pizza – just like the name suggests it was ready quickly and only €7.50.

The nearby department store was setting up for the holidays today.

Ready for the Holidays

We are feeling relaxed here…we like having an apartment and this one at Residenza dell’Opera has worked out great. We have one more full day in the city before we take a bus to the airport in Milan. We will stay in an airport hotel and will hopefully be home Saturday afternoon. Traveling in Italy is always fun and this has been an excellent get-away.

We hope you’re having a good week! Cheers!

Wine Shop Bouquet

Last Stop…Turin

We didn’t have a lot expectations for our visit to Cremona but it turned out to be one of our favorite cities. It’s colorful, easily walkable, and it has many nice restaurants and shops.

Colorful Cremona

On our last full day there we climbed the steps of the Torrazzo di Cremona to the very top!

Onward and Upward

Along the way, there were explanations of the function of the clock and the mechanisms that were used to stabilize the tower. It also served as a place to stop and catch our breath.

Behind the Scenes Look at the Astronomical Clock

The steps got progressively more narrow as we climbed closer to the top and at certain points we had to wait for a green light to insure that no one was coming down as we were going up (or vice versa). The views all the way up were incredible…especially as we got above the tops of all of the towers of the city. The skies were hazy as there was a forest fire somewhere in the distance but still we could see far and wide. We didn’t linger at the top and carefully made our way back down.

Top of the Torrazzo di Cremona

Around town, we found the home and workshop of Antonio Stradivari. It’s marked by a statue of him in front of the house. We learned that the violin that is a part of the statue is constantly removed by vandals and replaced only to be removed again. So, today he sits in front of his workshop with a look of bewilderment about his missing his violin.

Stradivari Sans Violin

Saturday morning we took the bus to the Cremona train station for our journey to our last stop on this trip, Turin (Torino, in Italian).

Train Station Cremona

We took a train to our connecting station, and got off to wait for our next train. We checked the departure board to find our track number…the train to Turin was leaving on Track 7. Just before the posted departure time, a train arrived and we hopped on…as the train doors closed we realized that we were on the wrong train…going to Milan Central Station rather than to Turin.

Milan Central Station

Milan Central Station is huge, very busy and currently being renovated, which adds to the confusion. We were able to change our tickets to a later train, boarded the correct train and made our way to Turin in the late afternoon.

We are staying in an apartment a little out of the city center. It has lots of space and a kitchen, living room, and bedroom. We think we’ll be happy here for our 6 night stay.

 

Kitchen

Living Room

Turin is a larger city compared to those we’ve visited on this trip…we’ve been here before but are anxious to explore other areas of town.  Hoping all is well with you! We enjoy our travel adventures and mishaps, we also miss family and friends while we’re away. Sending our best wishes! ❤️

Cremona…the City of Stradivarius

The Italian violin maker Antonio Stradivarius was born in Cremona. There is a violin museum (Museo del Violino) with details of his life and excellent displays explaining how violins and other string instruments are constructed…an art form that is unbelievably complex. One room that is designed with special lighting and carefully monitored temperature and humidity settings displays one Stradivarius cello and 11 violins made by Stradivarius, Amati, and Guarneri.

Museo del Violino, Cremona

These instruments are taken from their cases and played on a regular basis -each one about three times a year.  Sometimes they are used in a performance in a concert hall in the museum but we weren’t lucky enough to be here during a scheduled concert.

Below is an example of a violin maker’s workshop set up in the museum.  Around the city  you will see many actual workshops (liuteria). We learned that a luthier is a craftsperson who builds and repairs string instruments. These craftsmen (and women) still use the same tools and materials that their ancestors used 300 years ago.

Museo del Violino

Shop Window of a Violin Maker

There are several music schools in Cremona and we see many students to walking around the city with their instruments.

We got a closer look at the astronomical clock on the Torrazzo di Cremona (the bell tower). We need a little more time and better glasses to work out the details but it is definitely a masterpiece.

Clock on The Tower

The weather has been mild so we have walked everywhere. Today we walked to the Ala Ponzone Museum.  Another palace filled with treasures….like this massive work by Jacopo Ferrari.

Raccolta della manna (1649)

A work by Caravaggio;

San Francesco in Meditazione

and art inside and outside.

Bronze

We took a break for lunch at a traditional trattoria…El Sorbir.

Trattoria El Sabor

After lunch, several customers were stocking up on jars of pickled vegetables…made in-casa, possibly a seasonal item.

House-Made Pickled Vegetables

The food was excellent but the highlight was the chocolate budino with zabaglione cream sauce – a very rich chocolate pudding in a sauce flavored with Marsala wine. A dessert to be savored.

Chocolate Budino

Back to the museum after lunch, we saw works by a Cremona-born  painter and printmaker Sergio Tarquinio celebrating his 100 year birthday.

By Sergio Tarquinio

Our last stop before we left the museum was the stunning listening room, set up for an event being held later in the afternoon.

Listening Room- Ala Ponzone Museum

Cremona is a wonderful city and we’re having a great time here. We will have one more full day here before we leave for Turin on Saturday.