We’ve had a great five night stay here. The skies are blue, the piazzas bustling and the locals friendly.
Valencia City Center
Larry found a pleasant coffee shop for our morning pastry. 🥐 This morning we’ve had a big coffee and will be ready to head for the train station soon. Our next stop is Alicante – a two hour ride away.
Excellent Coffee in Valencia
Yesterday we visited the Cathedral;
Valencia Cathedral
and the Botanical Garden filled with more types of succulents than we could imagine.
Valencia Botanical Garden
Spain is known for wines and Vermouth (Vermut in Spain.) This red vermouth with soda became our new favorite Aperitivo.
Spanish Vermut
We are looking forward to checking out a new city…on to Alicante we go!
Valencia has lots of sights to keep us busy…even for 5 days. Monday we walked to the Museum of Arts and Sciences, a huge complex with a science museum, an aquarium, an IMAX Theater and a performance hall.
Museum Complex – Valencia
We spent most of the afternoon in the science museum – it’s a huge museum filled with many interesting exhibits.
Science Museum – Valencia
We learned what life on Mars might be like if we earthlings were to live there some day (hint: not easy.)
Mars Rover
Larry had an enlightening conversation with these Neanderthals, who we learned existed for at least 200,000 years in Europe and Western Asia. He explained some of the recent changes in baseball rules, but I’m not sure they understood it all.
Science Center – Valencia
Tuesday we visited the Mercat Central de València – filled with fresh fruits, vegetables, meats, and prepared foods. A bocadilla and salad made for a cheap and easy lunch.
Valencia Market HallBocadillas
Valencia is bustling during the day but things quiet down on weekday evenings. It’s an elegant and beautiful city. Tonight there is a full moon over Plaza del Ayuntamiento. We have one more full day here before we take the train to our next spot – Alicante.
Full Moon over Plaza Del Ayuntamiento – Valencia, Spain
A quick one hour train ride brought us from low-key Cuenca to vibrant Valencia. The hotel was close enough to the rail station so that even with luggage it was easily walkable. We parked our belongings in our room at RH Hotel Centro Sorolla and went out to check the local scene. We arrived on a Saturday evening, so things were lively and the streets crowded with locals and tourists. At first glance Valencia looked to us like a grand city!
Saturday Evening Valencia, Spain
We strolled around the area to get our bearings, had a light dinner of empanadas, and were ready to turn in for an early evening…though partying went on until the early morning hours (not us).
Sunday morning was bright and sunny so we mapped a plan to become more oriented – the city center is compact and easily walkable. Our first stop was in front of the grand La Lonja de la Seda de Valencia – a UNESCO World Heritage site. The building was formerly the Silk Exchange and its always been a center for commerce. We were fascinated by the two young cellists playing a Mr. Brightside (2004) by The Killers.
Cellists in Front of Llotja de la Seda
Lucky for us, many museums are free on Sundays so we made our to the Museo de Bellas Artes (Museum of Fine Arts). We liked this painting by Francisco Pons Arnau (1886-1953) titled “Valenciana.”
Valencina
There are many grand works in this collection!
Fine Arts Museum-Valencia
We navigated to a neighborhood spot called Restaurante Tapia for lunch. The highlight tapas was the Russian Salad. This version was made with potato, mayonnaise, hard boiled egg, canned tuna, and carrots, though many other versions exist. It’s delicious!
Russian Salad at Restaurante Tapla – Valencia
That’s Valencia so far! We’re looking forward to a visit to the market, the Cathedral and more adventures tomorrow!
Cuenca is a good place for relaxing with fun things to see too. We went inside the Cathedral this morning. We were surprised by the contemporary stained glass windows.
Cuenca Cathedral Inside
The walking trails are great for seeing the city from different vantage points. This one:
Casas Colgadas – Siglo XIV
And this:
View from the Trail
It’s night time in Cuenca and busy on a Friday evening in Plaza Mayor. The bus is waiting to take people down the hill to the newer city. We’ve had tapas and drinks and all is well. Tomorrow we’ll take a one hour train ride to Valencia – the third largest city in Spain.
We’re settling in and learning our way around the city. It’s pleasant here and the people we meet are very kind. Our hotel housed in a 17th Century former choir school may not have been the best pick with its slow internet and sloping floors but it’s clean and fine for us.
Larry in front of Posada de San Jose – Cuenca Old Town
The hotel is located near the top of the Old Town just above the Main Square, Plaza Mayor. The Old Town is set on a narrow ridge between two deep gorges, and it’s just a few streets wide. When we walk out the front door and turn left this is our street view…it’s all downhill from here.
Street View
Near the center of the square is The Catedral of Santa Maria de Gracia.
La Catedral on Plaza Mayor – Cuenca
The Cathedral is located on the spot where an ancient Moslem mosque was built. Construction began at the end of the 12th century and was completed and consecrated in 1271. The square just below the Cathedral is lined with shops and cafes.
The city is surrounded by hiking trails. The weather is lovely and this morning we walked to a lower vantage point for a view of houses perched on the cliff.
Houses on the Cliff
We visited the Museo de Arte Abstracto Espanol (Museum of Abstract Art) located in one of the Hanging Houses. In 1966, wealthy artist Fernando Zobel brought his personal collection of Spanish abstract art here. The works are beautifully displayed in wide open spaces. We enjoyed this museum!
When we’re really hungry in Spain, we opt for lunch at a restaurant with a Menu del Dia (Menu of the Day) that includes an appetizer, first course, second course, bread, wine, and dessert – all for 14 €. Today we tried the no-frills restaurant El Bodegon. It was a hearty meal that included homey Spanish comfort foods. The appetizer was topped with a tiny quail egg.
El Bodegon Restaurant
Cuenca has a lot to offer…historical sites, spectacular views, hiking trails, good restaurants and a lively art scene. It’s a great place to begin a visit to eastern Spain.
The flight from Atlanta to Madrid is a direct and easy eight hour flight, and it arrived right on time. We had three hours to get to the Chamartin Train station from the airport to catch the train to Cuenca. But a lack of careful planning on our part, and a series of missteps caused us to nearly miss the train. We made it with 3 minutes to spare! The train station in Cuenca is sleek, welcoming and beautiful.
Cuenca Rail Station
The terrain here is rugged and rocky. For a small city, there is quite a lot to explore. We’re staying at Posada de San Jose in the older section of town. The Old Town, where we’re staying is high above the newer part of the city, and quite a climb, unless you take the bus.
The hotel is quirky and the Internet weak, so we won’t be able to add many photos until we get better bandwidth. We’re happy here and all is well.
We last visited Spain in 2021. That was our first post-Covid trip, and we were excited to be back on the road again.
This trip will be our sixth time visiting Spain. On the last trip, we spent our time south of Madrid, extending to Granada. This time we will explore areas that are new to us, mainly, the Mediterranean coast centering around Valencia.
When we arrive in Madrid around 8:45 a.m. (2:45 a.m. Atlanta time) on Wednesday, April 17, we’ll head directly to the Chamartin train station to travel from Madrid to Cuenca. The travel time is just a little over 1 hour. We’re happy that we don’t have to rush to make a connecting flight and with a little luck, we’ll be in Cuenca by early afternoon.
We’ll spend 3 nights there to rest up from the trip and then head out. Here’s our plan:
Cuenca – 3 nights
Valencia – 5 nights
Alicante – 4 nights (then pick up a rental car and travel to…)
Denia – 4 nights
Peniscola – 3 nights
TBA – 4 nights
Teruel – 2 nights (return rental car and train to Madrid)
Madrid – 4 nights
It might be a little chilly at the beginning of the trip, but we’re looking forward to sunny skies, seafood and wine!
Lunch in Seville, 2021
If you’d like to follow along, we’ll post some photos every few days – come back to the link to check in.
It’s taken us a few days to learn our way around the city and even with 6 days here, we have a list of things to explore on a future trip. For a small city, Oaxaca is loaded with unique and interesting activities.
Classes:
There are flyers all around town advertising classes and events. This one is for anyone interested in making pottery;
Pottery Class
And this one for learning to carve and print woodcuts.
Learn How to Carve Woodcuts
plus cooking classes, free city tours, mescal tasting, and/or immersive Spanish language classes.
Markets:
There are expansive markets and small neighborhood markets to explore either on your own or with a market tour. The large Mercado Benito Juárez can be exciting but also overwhelming. Many neighborhoods have a smaller market. The stalls are clean and the vendors friendly.
Market in Oaxaca
One of the popular things to try at the market are fruit juice drinks. A favorite is called Jugo Verde (Green Juice) with fresh orange juice, pineapple juice, spinach, kale, and more depending on the recipe. It has health benefits and is refreshing as well.
Outside the City:
Day trips to Zona Arqueológica de Monte Albán and craft villages are also possibilities that we just didn’t have time to explore.
Daytimes temps have been in the 80’s and it’s cooler at night so it’s a good winter destination.
We like Oaxaca and can imagine spending more time here….the city is clean and it feels safe to us. There are still many more things for us to discover! Next time…
By this morning, the smoky plume had dispersed and the fire in the mountains is under control. Yesterday it looked quite ominous but today all is well.
We find tacos of every variety in Oaxaca. These seafood tacos; one with shrimp and another with tuna, at Restaurant Humar were perfectly prepared. The rooftop seating plus a spicy mescal cocktail made for a light and tasty dinner.
Fish Tacos at Humar
The Templo de Santo Domingo is one of the most beautiful churches in the city.
Templo de Santo DomingoChurch Interior
We’re exploring different neighborhoods and finding each one to be interesting. Entryways are colorful and many times secured with a locked gate.
Colors of the CityStreet View
The main gathering place in the city is the Zocalo. In the daytime people sit in the shade while vendors work the crowd selling clothing, wooden implements, and other small items. Most evening there is music and sometimes dancing. Tonight a marimba band was playing and a large crowd gathered to listen.
Marimbas in the Zocolo
We didn’t visit the Botanical Garden but we had a nice view of it from an open window at the Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca.
Botanical Garden
The weather is warm and we’re enjoying the upbeat and friendly people. It’s pleasant here!
We’ve been curious about this arty city in Mexico for quite a long time. We felt like a change from our favorite winter destination Thailand, and decided on a shorter trip to Mexico. We flew Atlanta to Mexico City and on to Oaxaca a couple of days ago. The small airport in Oaxaca is colorful and easy to navigate. We got in line for a fixed price taxi service that took us directly to our hotel.
Oaxaca International Airport
We’re staying not far from the Zocalo (city center) at Hotel Siglo XVII. The outside is colorful, though not distinctive;
Street View Hotel Siglo XVII
but once inside, it opens into a beautiful courtyard.
Courtyard View
Many of the walls have colorful art.
Art Hotel Siglo XVII
The room is comfortable, quiet, well located and the staff members are kind and helpful. We plan to spend a total of 6 nights here.
We were lucky enough to be just down the street from a popular breakfast spot called Boulenc. Our first morning here we had a delicious breakfast of yogurt with fruit and a (shared) cardamom pastry. The coffee here is excellent as well!
Breakfast at Boulenc
Around town we see colorful characters;
Around Town
markets with a variety of food stalls;
Flowers in the Market
and young people practicing traditional dances under the shade of a tree.
Folklorico Dance Practice
Oaxaca is vibrant, and in our first days here we’ve seen many parades and festivities along with lively nightlife. The city is known for its excellent food so we’re trying new-to-us foods and drinks; learning about Mexican culture, and enjoying a colorful city.
Colors of Oaxaca
Adding here that there is a worrying development to our adventure. This afternoon a plume of smoke appeared on the horizon. A forest fire in the mountains above is creating quite a lot of smoke. We’re keeping an eye on it…fingers crossed that all will be well.