We planned our travels to avoid typhoon season but, the first typhoon to arrive in November since 1967 is heading this way! We’ve been following the track of the storm for the last couple of days and it looks like it will make landfall on the eastern coast. To be safe(ish) we spent this morning readjusting our itinerary. We learned that it might be safer to be away from the coast and in a larger city. We’ll leave Taipei as scheduled to take a train to Taichung, a large city in the interior of the island. According to news reports, “Taiwan will be hardest hit by the storm on Thursday and Friday. The weather will improve over the weekend, though lingering moisture could bring additional rain to some parts of the country.”
We’ve totally rescheduled our trip and will save Hualien (originally our next destination after Taipei) for later in the trip.
We’ve spent the last couple of days wandering around Taipei. Yesterday we went to the famous Taipei 101 Building. This very tall structure is sits on top of a shopping mall. In the photo below the 101 Building is on the right.
Taipei 101
We find lovely walkways and parks all around the city.
Taipei Park
Today we took a long bus ride to visit the National Palace Museum. We saw beautiful ceramics,
Ceramic Bowl – National Palace Museum
and the Jadeite Cabbage along with some beautiful jewelry.
Jadeite Cabbage
Things in Taiwan are amazingly organized and efficient. At the entrance to the metro stations is a rack of umbrellas that you can rent for a few hours on a rainy day.
Umbrellas For Rent!
Leaving the hotel on our way to dinner this evening we were in the elevator with another couple. We had a conversation with them and discovered that they they’re from Atlanta too!
The winds are picking up but we should be at our next stop in Taichung by mid-afternoon tomorrow. We’ll get some supplies and prepare to stay put for a day or two until the storm passes. These storms are very fickle so it could be a false alarm or maybe lots of wind and rain. In any case, we’ll be careful!
We have many delicious dining options in Taipei and we’re enjoying food from various Asian cultures. In addition to Taiwanese Street Food we’ve eaten at Indonesian and Thai restaurants. All very good!
People line up at this stall on Yongkang Street in the Da’an District to try the popular Scallion Pancake. There are several options to chose from like egg and basil or egg and cheese. They were filling and cheap…50 Taiwanese dollars or $1.56 in U.S.D.
Taipei Street Food
To quench our thirst we bought a fruit drink sweetened with sugar cane, flavored with kumquat juice and embellished with unexpected “bubbles” or pearls of tapioca. It was very tasty! Interestingly, it was Taiwanese immigrants who brought bubble tea to the U.S. in the 1990’s.
There are many interesting eateries on Yongkang Street and we plan to return to try other spots like the one below.
Yongkang Street Eatery
We visited the beautiful Longshan Temple which was established in 1738.
Longshan Temple
We’re walking lots and enjoying the sites. It was a big weekend in Taipei with the Gay Pride Parade and Halloween celebrations around the city. As we returned to the hotel from dinner this evening, we first noticed this Ramen Noodle Shop with every variety of packaged noodles imaginable – then we noticed the World Series being broadcast on the T.V. screen in the window.
Ramen ShopOrchids at Longshan Temple
It’s been a good weekend here. We have two more days in Taipei before we move to our next spot – Hualien.
Our Scoot Airlines flight from Tokyo delivered us safely and on time. By the time we arrived, we were very weary but we managed to buy our Metro card and get some Taiwanese dollars from the ATM. The weather was miserable with driving rain and gusty winds so taxis weren’t available. Our best option for getting to the hotel was to navigate the Metro. A train from the airport goes to the Main Station, a huge complex that would be confusing even when we weren’t tired after a four hour flight. We picked out a kind looking young man from the crowd to ask for directions. He not only told us how to get where we needed to go, but took us to the escalator that led us to the Metro line we needed. We were very grateful to Fabian, a young student from Malaysia studying in Taipei.
Once we exited the Metro, it was so windy that our umbrellas turned inside out. Lucky for us, the hotel is just a few steps from the exit from the Metro stop. We were wet and weary but happy to have arrived!
Room With a View
Our hotel is very nice and well-located but compared to Tokyo, our view is less spectacular.
It was still rainy this morning but after breakfast at a coffee shop down the street called Mr. Brown’s, we set out to find a laundromat. It took awhile but we found it and were successful in navigating the machines.
Laundry in Taipei
While we waited for things to wash and dry, we talked to a young Japanese man who is studying Chinese in Taipei and also browsed the nearby supermarket. Larry found some reading glasses to replace broken ones and we discovered flavored beer…grape, mango and pineapple. Don’t worry, we didn’t drink any!
Flavorful Taiwanese Beer
We spent the day exploring our neighborhood. We ate lunch in the basement of the upscale Sogo Department Store. There are stalls with many different options. People are very friendly and we enjoyed talking to a young Taiwanese Physics student and his cousins who were visiting from New York.
Department Store Lunch Spot
We haven’t spent enough time here to really have a sense of the culture, but our first impressions are very positive. Like Tokyo, there is lots of traffic and many 7-Elevens.
Taipei
It seems to us, so far, that the people here might be a little friendlier and the neighborhoods not as polished compared to Tokyo. Taiwan shares a lot of culture with its neighbor to the north, Japan, but it also has much in common with the Indo-Chinese countries to the south.
Construction Site or Art Project?
The sun came out in the afternoon and the evening sky was pretty. Motorcycles are waiting for the traffic light to change.
Late Afternoon in Taipei
We’re settling in and moving at a relaxed pace. We hope all is well with you!
We’re staying at the Mitsui Garden Hotel in Ginza and they have decorated for the season. The weather has been mixed with both sunny and rainy/cloudy days but it’s been warmer than we expected with daytime temperatures in the lower 70’s and 80’s so it hardly feels like fall.
Tuesday was a pleasant sunny day and we took the Metro to the Asakusa Stop to see the Sensoji Temple. It’s the oldest temple in Tokyo said to have been built in 628. Even with the crowds, it’s a nice complex to walk around.
Sensoji TempleBuddha and Tokyo Skytree
The Tokyo Skytree is one of two towers visible in the city. The guidebook says that it’s the tallest broadcasting tower in the world.
Also visible around town is the Tokyo Tower. Shown on the left side of the photo below. With lights that change colors nightly, it looks a bit like the Eiffel Tower.
Tokyo Tower at Night
On Wednesday, our last full day in Tokyo, we walked to teamLab Borderless, a digital art museum. It’s described as “a world of artworks without borders, a museum without a map.” Artworks move in and out of rooms and at times intermingle without boundaries. We spent nearly two hours exploring the various “trippy” spaces.
Larry and Sharon At the Entrance
Images and colors change constantly – it’s a unique experience and very popular. We bought tickets 3 months in advance.
Digital Art
Coffee packets are provided in our hotel room but it took a couple of days to discover how they were intended to work. Larry determined that the “wings” fit over the edge of the cup and hot water is poured through the “filter”. It actually makes a decent cup of coffee.
Unique Coffee Filter
Tokyo has been quite a fun adventure for us. We’ve spent our days here discovering neighborhoods, searching for delicious food, and learning about Japanese culture. Tomorrow we’ll take a train to the airport in Narita, about one hour from here. From Narita, it will be a four flight to Taipei on Scoot Airlines.
We took another stroll to see the lovely shop windows – each one is carefully curated.
We are keeping busy here, partly because it’s so easy to travel efficiently around the city by Metro, bus, or walking. Yesterday, instead of taking the Metro, we (sort of accidentally) opted for the bus. This gave us the opportunity to see more of the city than we would have on the metro. We use our Suica (transit pass) as we board, and the screen at the front of the bus tells us the route in both Japanese and English.
Tokyo Bus
Our destination was across the river to see the newer Toyosu Fish Market. It’s a huge complex…mostly a wholesale warehouse. There is a small museum and a place where people can view the tuna auction – though that would require an early morning (5:30-6:30 a.m.) visit.
There are some restaurants in the complex and we ate a delicious sushi lunch there at a quiet little restaurant. The sign outside said that they had been operating for 50 years.
RYU SushiLunch at Toyosu Fish Market
Back in the city center, we walked around the Kokyo Galen National Garden Plaza in front of the Imperial Palace. We learned that there are around 2000 Japanese Black Pine Trees in the gardens and they are spectacular to see.
Pines, Lake and City ViewJapanese Black Pines
On the way back to our hotel, we walked through Hibuya Park where there was a Fall Gardening Show. We watched this gentleman create an arrangement using tiny forceps to add small succulents to his arrangement. Creative and quite amazing!
Arranging Succulent
Arrangements look like this:
Succulent Arrangement
We got some good ideas for clever fall container plantings.
Tokyo Gardening Display
People in Tokyo are very well dressed and shop windows are fun to see.
Tokyo Style, 2024
Dinner last night was at a funky little izakaya (Japanese style tapas) restaurant with tiny portions. It was more expensive than it should have been. The restaurant was atmospheric and colorful which counted for something.
Small Plate Sweet Potato Fries
After dinner, we were still hungry, so we went to a nearby Family Mart for fried chicken squares (Famichiki) to complete our meal. We’ve read that there is a sort of cult following for kombini store (AKA convenience store) fried chicken. Each convenience store brand has its own contender.
Tokyo Izakaya
The weather is pleasant. We have just a couple more days of adventure here, but we’ve only scratched the surface!
The unlucky part of this is that after dinner on Saturday evening, we realized that Larry’s credit card was missing. We tried to reconstruct our day to decide where it might be…left at a lunch spot in the Tsukiji Fish Market or dropped on the street at an ice cream stand. On Saturday morning we left the hotel early to retrace our steps to find the missing card.
The Fish Market market was super crowded…even more so than the day before. We arrived at the restaurant and they recognized Larry and had his card. We were very relieved!
Nearby we stopped at the Tsukiji Hongwan-ji Temple. It’s a large complex and with a different vibe compared to Buddhist temples we’ve visited in Thailand. Shin Buddhism is practiced here.
Tsukiji Hongwan-ji Temple
After our visit there it was time to search for lunch. We were lucky enough to find a delicious bowl of Ramen at a tiny restaurant. We made our choices and paid using a self-service terminal located at the door just inside the restaurant (the kiosk is slightly visible in the photo below.)
Larry at the Ramen Restaurant
The bowl of noodles was delivered to our table within a few minutes.
Ramen Lunch
We mastered the Metro system and made our way to Uneo Park – maybe a bit like Central Park in New York City with museums, a zoo, and more. We were lucky enough to be there for the Dahlia Festival. The blossoms on these flowers are extraordinary!
Dahlia Festival at Uneo ParkBouquet of Dahlias
Night times streets are colorful and surprisingly less busy compared to the crush of people during the day.
Saturday Evening TokyoShop Window in Black, White and Blue
It takes time to get oriented to a new city. This morning we set out to buy a Suica Transit Card to make it more convenient to pay for subway rides. The subway stations are huge and the cards aren’t available at every station but we were successful with the help of friendly staff at the Tokyo Station.
In our effort to find an ATM, we stumbled into the Tourist Office. The staff there gave us city maps, some good suggestions for planning our time here, and the location of the nearest ATM – in the 7-Eleven across the street. Our plan to go the the Imperial Palace Gardens was scuttled as we learned that they are closed today.
It’s lunch time so we decided to walk to the Tsukiji Fish Market. It’s a crowded maze of shops with all things seafood and exotic snacks.
Street Scene Tsukiji Market
Market stall vendors sell beautiful cuts of seafood to restaurants and locals.
Seafood Market
And, specialty shops sell knives – a must for the perfect slice of sushi.
Knife Shop
Below, a cheerful gentleman works hard to lure customers into his shop.
Street Market
A shop just for omelettes!? Next time we go, we want to try one of these cold Japanese omelettes as they seem to be very popular.
Japanese Omelette Shop
When we headed out for dinner this evening the weather app assured us that the chances of rain this were very low but, we got wet! It’s a rainy Friday evening in Tokyo and in spite of the rain, all is well!
Our flight arrived in Tokyo on time at 1:15 p.m., we cleared customs and made our way to the main hall to buy metro tickets. It was a scramble to find the right line, the right ticket, and the right train. Can you find Larry in the crowd?
Tokyo Airport – Buying Tickets to the City Center
We did get tickets and promptly got on the wrong train! After a few stops we realized our mistake, regrouped, and eventually found our way to the station nearest our hotel…Shimbashi Station.
Our hotel is the Ginza neighborhood. The room is small and efficient as is common in Japanese hotel rooms. Nearby is a 7 Eleven, a Family Mart, and a Lawsons…all convenience shops that sell take out foods, toiletries, and snacks.
We have a nice night time view of this part of the city.
Tokyo at Night
It’s Friday morning here and the day is cloudy with rain in the forecast. We will take our umbrellas ☔️ , pack our plastic ponchos, and head out soon.
Cloudy Friday in Tokyo
We had a good nights sleep and we’re ready to explore!
We’re traveling to the largest and most populous continent on earth to explore two different countries – Japan and Taiwan.
It’s a direct flight from Atlanta to Tokyo so that’s where we decided to begin. We’ll spend one week in Tokyo exploring this enormous city at our own pace and hope to return another time to experience more cities.
Map of Japan – Note location of Tokyo
From Tokyo, we’ll fly Scoot Airlines ( a new one for us) to Taipei, where we’ll start our visit to Taiwan. We’re planning to travel clockwise around the island (from Taipei) by train or bus but we may occasionally hire a driver or car to see some sights off-the-beaten path.
Here’s the plan for Taiwan:
Taipei – 6 nights
Hualien – 3 nights
Taitung – 3 nights
Kaohsiung – 4 nights
Tainan – 3 nights
TBD – Taichung, back to Taipei, or somewhere else – 3 nights
Below is a map of the country:
We are unfamiliar with these countries so to prepare we’ve reviewed guidebooks, watched YouTube videos and followed posts on Reddit.
Hotels are booked but we’re prepared to make alternate plans in case of earthquake, typhoon, or a recommendation that will lead us to a new destination. We plan to explore temples, gardens, and night markets to see lovely sites and taste delicious food.
The flight time is 14 hours and 37 minutes. Japan is 13 hours ahead of the Eastern Standard Time Zone and Taiwan is 12 hours ahead so it will take us a day or so to catch up.
If you want to follow along, check back every few days to see where we are!
We’ve spent this last full day in Chiang Mai preparing for our flight home late Wednesday evening. We’ve been thinking about our time here and wanted to give a balanced view of our stay as our photos mostly show the more attractive aspects of the city. We have been very happy spending one month here but we hesitate to recommend it to everyone. It’s a city that we’ve spent more time in than anywhere else in the world except for home but, we realize that it might not appeal to everyone.
Here are some of the challenges…
Traffic: The traffic is busy – cars, motorcycles, buses, and pickup trucks.
Poor Air Quality: Typically in February, farmers burn the fields to prepare for planting crops and that leaves the air quality poor. The burning happens across national borders. It appears to come from Laos, Myanmar/Burma, and Northern Thailand. Forest fires are also a contributor.
Lack of Sidewalks: We walk most places and it’s easy to get around on foot but many streets don’t have a sidewalk and it feels somewhat dangerous to walk on the side of the road, with traffic coming from unexpected directions. Like in the U.K., drivers drive on the opposite side of the road compared to the U.S., so we have to be constantly aware of traffic patterns.
Water Safety: We can’t drink the water so we have to either boil or buy water for drinking, washing dishes, making coffee, and brushing our teeth. We are careful about ice in drinks – even in restaurants. Clean tap water is something we take for granted at home! Also, the plumbing in buildings is old and we can’t flush toilet paper. A waste basket is kept nearby for disposing of tissue.
Food Safety: We try to be careful. When we eat street food, we try to find busy stalls where the turnover of food is frequent and things are freshly prepared. At least one of us had some digestive discomfort during this trip.
Unsafe Kitchen?
Grit: Much of the city is gritty, smelly and dilapidated…but we like the funkiness of it all. There are other Asian cities that have been heavily modernized, but they are largely soulless.
Some Grit
Now, here is a list of the reasons we keep returning to Chiang Mai:
Kind, friendly people! Thai people are wonderful. They are graceful, calm, and tolerant. Also, tourist numbers haven’t returned to pre-COVID numbers so everyone is making an extra effort to make tourists feel welcomed.
Artist, Narodom Kamenketwit
Charm: The city has a funky, laid back charm.
Creative, inspired food. Now, in addition to Thai food there are a variety of cuisines – Japanese, Indian, Burmese, Italian, and Middle Eastern. The new trend here is gourmet coffee and pastry shops.
Japanese Dining
Inexpensive costs for everything – food, accommodations, activities and all!
Walkability – we walk a lot! Transportation options include tuk-tuk motorcycles, but as we age, tuk-tuk transport feels more risky so we are sticking to walking or local car-share services (similar to Uber), for longer distances. When we were here 4 years ago, a new bus service was just starting up, but unfortunately, that has been discontinued.
Fancy Tuk Tuk
Lots to do: Chiang Mai is sometimes dismissively described as M.E.A.T.: Markets, Elephants, Artisans, and Temples, but when you have an extended stay here, you discover that it’s much more than that – we’ve also enjoyed yoga classes, art classes, Monk Chats, and more. There are over 300 Buddhist temples in Chiang Mai and each one is different, beautiful and fascinating to explore.
Warm Temperatures: – while it’s chilly, even in Atlanta, the temps range from 60’s in the mornings and evenings, to upper 80’s to low 90’s during the day.
Safety: Low crime rate – we feel safe here. You can walk the streets here at any time of the day or night without fear for your safety (other than watching out for uncontrolled dogs). The American Consulate is just down the street and Westerners we’ve met who had a medical emergency received excellent care.
Availability of Western Comforts: Groceries, toiletries, and restaurants. We can find almost anything we need here including name brand foods and toiletries – even a cheeseburger!
Supplies!
Acceptance: While as tourists, we don’t know the full story but it seems that there is a level of acceptance here that isn’t present everywhere. In the neighborhood where we stay, there is a Buddhist temple next to a Sikh temple. Just around the corner is a Muslim neighborhood, right next to the Christian area where missionaries live. We can walk by the Christian enclave and hear hymns being sung over a loudspeaker; down the street, people rush to the Mosque as the call to prayer sounds; and while walking through the temple grounds we hear monks chanting. It’s nice to feel that people with different ideas and beliefs can live peacefully side by side.
Nearby Mosque
Surprises: Around every corner!
In spite of the inconveniences and sometimes chaos, we find the city welcoming, safe, easy to navigate and very affordable.
When we try to come up with other warm winter destinations, Chiang Mai is still at the top of our list!
We’re happy here and we’ll be happy to be home soon!