Category: Chiang Mai, Thailand 2023

We’ve spent this last full day in Chiang Mai preparing for our flight home late Wednesday evening.  We’ve been thinking about our time here and wanted to give a balanced view of our stay as our photos mostly show the more attractive aspects of the city.  We have been very happy spending one month here but we hesitate to recommend it to everyone.  It’s a city that we’ve spent more time in than anywhere else in the world except for home but, we realize that it might not appeal to everyone.

Here are some of the challenges…

Traffic:  The traffic is busy – cars, motorcycles, buses, and pickup trucks.

Poor Air Quality:  Typically in February, farmers burn the fields to prepare for planting crops and that leaves the air quality poor.  The burning happens across national borders. It appears to come from Laos, Myanmar/Burma, and Northern Thailand. Forest fires are also a contributor.

Lack of Sidewalks:  We walk most places and it’s easy to get around on foot but many streets don’t have a sidewalk and it feels somewhat dangerous to walk on the side of the road, with traffic coming from unexpected directions. Like in the U.K., drivers drive on the opposite side of the road compared to the U.S., so we have to be constantly aware of traffic patterns.

Water Safety:  We can’t drink the water so we have to either boil or buy water for drinking, washing dishes, making coffee, and brushing our teeth. We are careful about ice in drinks – even in restaurants. Clean tap water is something we take for granted at home!  Also, the plumbing in buildings is old and we can’t flush toilet paper.  A waste basket is kept nearby for disposing of tissue.

Food Safety:  We try to be careful.  When we eat street food, we try to find busy stalls where the turnover of food is frequent and things are freshly prepared.  At least one of us had some digestive discomfort during this trip.

Grit:  Much of the city is gritty, smelly and dilapidated…but we like the funkiness of it all. There are other Asian cities that have been heavily modernized, but they are largely soulless.

Now, here is a list of the reasons we keep returning to Chiang Mai:

Kind, friendly people!  Thai people are wonderful. They are graceful, calm, and tolerant. Also, tourist numbers haven’t returned to pre-COVID numbers so everyone is making an extra effort to make tourists feel welcomed.  

Charm:  The city has a funky, laid back charm.

Creative, inspired food.  Now, in addition to Thai food there are a variety of cuisines – Japanese, Indian, Burmese, Italian, and Middle Eastern.  The new trend here is gourmet coffee and pastry shops.  

Inexpensive costs for everything – food, accommodations, activities and all!

Walkability – we walk a lot!  Transportation options include tuk-tuk motorcycles, but as we age, tuk-tuk transport feels more risky so we are sticking to walking or local car-share services (similar to Uber), for longer distances.  When we were here 4 years ago, a new bus service was just starting up, but unfortunately, that has been discontinued.

Lots to do:  Chiang Mai is sometimes dismissively described as M.E.A.T.: Markets, Elephants, Artisans, and Temples, but when you have an extended stay here, you discover that it’s much more than that –  we’ve also enjoyed yoga classes, art classes, Monk Chats, and more.  There are over 300 Buddhist temples in Chiang Mai and each one is different, beautiful and fascinating to explore.

Warm Temperatures: – while it’s chilly, even in Atlanta, the temps range from 60’s in the mornings and evenings, to upper 80’s to low 90’s during the day.

Safety:  Low crime rate – we feel safe here. You can walk the streets here at any time of the day or night without fear for your safety (other than watching out for uncontrolled dogs). The American Consulate is just down the street and Westerners we’ve met who had a medical emergency received excellent care.

Availability of Western Comforts: Groceries, toiletries, and restaurants.  We can find almost anything we need here including name brand foods and toiletries – even a cheeseburger!

Acceptance:  While as tourists, we don’t know the full story but it seems that there is a level of acceptance here that isn’t present everywhere.  In the neighborhood where we stay, there is a Buddhist temple next to a Sikh temple.  Just around the corner is a Muslim neighborhood, right next to the Christian area where missionaries live.  We can walk by the Christian enclave and hear hymns being sung over a loudspeaker; down the street, people rush to the Mosque as the call to prayer sounds; and while walking through the temple grounds we hear monks chanting. It’s nice to feel that people with different ideas and beliefs can live peacefully side by side.

Surprises:  Around every corner!

In spite of the inconveniences and sometimes chaos, we find the city welcoming, safe, easy to navigate and very affordable.  

When we try to come up with other  warm winter destinations, Chiang Mai is still at the top of our list!

We’re happy here and we’ll be happy to be home soon!

 

 

We’re not really big football fans but we have family living near Kansas City and at least one nephew who is an Eagles fan so we’ll be curious about the outcome.  If we were fans, we’d have to wake up at 6:30 a.m. to watch!

Since the high temperature was 92 degrees this afternoon, we headed to the Mall!  There is a great food court there and we found lots of lunch options.  In addition to Thai food, there are stalls with Japanese and Chinese food.  It’s clean, there are plenty of spots to sit, and the food is inexpensive.  A great place to try new things.

Yesterday we went to the spa for a massage.  It’s a treat to have a Thai massage and the Fah Lanna Spa was a good choice for the experience.  As one might imagine, there are massage places on every corner…some better than others.  We booked in advance and the cost was 700 Thai baht or about $23.00 U.S. dollars.   When we arrived we were served iced hibiscus tea.  Once in the massage room, a large open space with mats on the floor, we changed into a loose pajama-style outfit.  The therapists arrived and spent one hour massaging – sometimes not so gently.  We felt refreshed and renewed after the experience!

The space inside is beautiful and the service excellent.  After the treatment we were greeted with a cup of ginger tea and a rice cake.

Typically, we only see the tourist boat on the Ping River but today, there was a colorful kayaker.

When the sun sets, the sky turns a rosy color.  This is tonight’s view from the footbridge.

We stop by the temple nearly every day to check on the lotus flowers.  They have been glorious to watch!

The orchids are pretty nice as well!

Soon, it will be time to pack up and head home!  We’ll be ready, but it’s been a fun and relaxed time here in Chiang Mai!

There are surprises around every corner!   Work continues on Wat Ket – it makes us wonder if there is a big event in the future.  Today, they were touching up the paint on the dragons.

The Ping River meanders through the city.  We often walk along the river and admire the boats that take tourists on a cruise for a different view of the city.

We’re making the most of our last few days here.  Today we explored the Nimman section of the city that offers a more modern experience compared to The Old Town.  While Nimman is more trendy, we like the Old Town for its culture and history.  It’s quite a distance from where we stay but we used a Grab Car Service – like Uber.  Larry used the Grab App to hire the car and typically, it arrives within minutes.  The cost of the ride today was about $4.00.  The cars are newer models, very clean and air conditioned. Here’s a view of our ride today.  The driver dropped us off at the modern Maya Mall.

We wanted to mail a couple of things at the Post Office.  The process was easy – actually more streamlined than our local post office.  I went to  a kiosk to get a ticket then, when my number came up, it told me what window to go to.  The cost for two letters was about $3.00.  We’ll see how long they take to arrive!

Mangos are a mystery!  We are clueless about how to chose the best mango – they are priced differently from $1.00 – $2.00 per kilo and they all look the same to us.  Peeling a mango is a technique that we haven’t quite mastered but so far our mango picks have been delicious and delicate.  The easiest way to enjoy one though, is in a delicious mango smoothie.

This evening we were invited to  an art exhibition at the studio where I’ve taken some classes.  The artist is from the Netherlands and she described her process and her works.  It was a small gathering but we met some very interesting people and had a nice evening.

And a view of the Studio Space.

We  are happy for cool mornings, interesting days, kind people, and a peaceful vibe.  We’ll see what adventure the weekend brings!

Our walks around the neighborhood usually lead  us to something interesting.  Last week we passed an Art Studio Space where people were working on block print projects.  Narodom Kamenketwit is a charcoal and woodcut artist and he has started teaching small groups of students. Monday, I returned to learn more!

Below is one of his works.

Now my turn.  I used an exacto knife to cut out the images, then rolled the ink onto the stencils I’d cut and created my own work.  It was great fun!

Today Narodom (also know as Bo), taught a watercolor class.  A young Thai woman and I were the only students.  He set up the still life below for us to paint.

The studio is a wonderful open space that can be configured for many kinds of projects.  Below is view of the creative room where the class was held.  My attempt at capturing the images in watercolor is nearby.

Bo is hosting an exhibition on Friday evening and we are invited!  It should be fun.

Work continues on the Chedi structure at Wat Ket but we’ve decided that it’s a cleaning project.  Some of the scaffolding has been removed and it looks shinier at the top!

The weather is warm and all is well!  We have one more week before we make our way home!

Last evening we went to Nong Buak Haad Public Park for more Flower Festival activities.  It was beautifully decorated with flowers and twinkling lights.  The floats from the parade were parked there so we could get a closer look.  This float took first place.

The lights were brilliant, the flowers lovely and everyone was enjoying a nice evening surrounded by lights and flowers.

And more lights…

We walked a couple of miles from the Park to our apartment and passed several Wat’s along the way.  Each Wat is different and there are many.

And here we are – just a few more steps ‘til we’re back in our apartment.

It’s not just the Flower Festival that has lovely blossoms!  They’re all over town!

Enjoy the day!

The Flower Festival is an annual event that’s always held the first weekend in February.  One of the major parks in the city is beautifully decorated with floral sculptures, flower stalls are set up with rare or exotic flowers for purchase, a Flower Festival Queen is chosen and for us, the highlight is the Parade.  It traditionally kicks off while the temps are cool, at 8 a.m. We arrived in time for the beginning!

It’s difficult to capture the beauty of the floats.  They are multi-colored, elegant, and filled with flowers.

The parade had it all…lovely participants,

marching bands,

exotic animals,

traditional costumes,

and fanciful ones.

We stayed for nearly two hours and the parade wasn’t yet over!  It’s a big event, and we’ve made it a point to schedule our travels so that we can attend.

It’s a happy occasion and we understand why Thailand is called the Land of Smiles!

Today we returned to Wat Chedi Luang to participate in a Monkchat.  We sat at a picnic table under a shade tree with Sun, an ordained monk.  He was patient in answering our questions about Buddhism and the life he lives as a monk.  The benefit for the monks who participate in this program is that it gives them a chance to practice their language and listening skills with people from other countries.

Sun is exceptional.  He has studied in Thailand and in India, has a Ph.D. in Linguistics, and he has met the Dalai Lama.  He is 38 years old and on the faculty of the Mahanakut Buddhist University.  When we asked him how he finds inner peace, he told us that he meditates at least two hours per day.  He stressed to us that one should always live in the present moment and that everything changes – nothing in this universe is constant.

We feel fortunate that we had a chance to chat with such an interesting monk.

We asked many questions and learned a lot.  One question he answered was about the significance of the bells at the corners of the temple.  Sun told us that when the bells “ding” it’s a reminder to focus on the present moment!  The closeup below shows the small bells hanging from the temple roof.  They make the most wonderful tinkling sound!

The experience was a trip highlight!  We’ll need some time to process all that we learned.  After our experience, we soothed our souls with a slice of creamy coconut cake.  One more reminder that nothing lasts forever.

We encountered these chickens when we took a shortcut through another temple complex.  They’re not afraid to mingle with the fake blue flamingos.

For the first time since we arrived, the temperature hit 90 degrees but happily, once the sun goes down, it cools down quickly.  The air quality is not so great today, one of the downsides of visiting this area.  Still, we’re content, learning new things, eating well and looking forward to catching up with friends and family when we return!

 

Every day is different and each one interesting.  We usually leave in the morning with a destination in mind and find things along the way that peak our interest.  Today we walked by an Art Workshop outside an artist’s studio.  Bo specializes in charcoal but he also makes woodcut prints.  He set up a table outside under a tree with materials for participants to make block prints and charcoal sketches.

Fun metal fish sculptures hung from the tree branches and swirled in the breeze.  We were too late to attend the class today but I’ll make sure to be there when he does it again next Monday.

We both got haircuts.  Larry’s cost $4.00 and mine was $10.00.  We’re happy with our styles!

Lunch today was Katsu Curry Chicken eaten at an outdoor eatery called Ton Wah.  We want to find a recipe for this delicious curry.

We spent time at Wat Chedi Luang while we waited for my haircut appointment.  It’s a beautiful complex with lots to see.

Last night we went to the Sunday Night Market.  Its a busy and crowded market – the street is blocked off and lined with crafts and clothes for sale plus lots of street food stalls.  It’s a great way to try lots of Thai specialties.  These Gozya were especially good.

I went in search of the Toilet and found this area behind one of the Temples.  It thought it looked like a movie set!

Today we met:

• A cinematographer from Miami,
• Karl, a digital nomad from from Denver,
• Lucy who just arrived here and is escaping frigid weather in Minneapolis,
• and a Swedish academic who works in China and is visiting here with his much younger Chinese girlfriend.  

We enjoying hearing stories and adventures of fellow travelers!  It’s a trip!

Our walks take us to different neighborhoods and today we ate lunch in the Muslim neighborhood nearby.  There is a small shop that is known for Khao Soi, a favorite Thai dish that is a delicious, spicy soup.  The recipe combines egg noodles, coconut milk, and red curry paste plus chicken or beef;  all topped with crunchy noodles.  Condiments are served on the side – things like thinly sliced red onion, lime wedges, and cilantro are typical additions.

Here’s the shop.

We sat on pink plastic stools to eat our bowls of spicy, savory soup.

Here’s one serious customer.

From where we sat, we could see the action in the back of the kitchen.

It’s a popular place and the soup is so delicious that we’ll be sure to return!

We stopped by Wat Ket to see the progress of the workmen.  It’s barely visible but the tiny red dot at the top is one of the workmen.

Here’s a closer view.

Just over the bridge from where we stay is the sprawling Warorot Market – we can find almost anything there.  One section is devoted only to flowers.

Our favorite Lotus Flower at the Wat, reminds us each day brings the possibility of new beginnings!  Wishing you a good day!

 

We’ve been around town discovering new places and revisiting familiar ones.  A few of the shops that we remember have closed but people are industrious, creative, and determined, so things in Chiang Mai are constantly changing.

Here’s a clever treat…Honeycomb Soft Serve Ice Cream with a square bit of chewy honeycomb on the side.  Sixty-nine Thai Baht is $2.24 in U.S. Dollars.  It’s quite good!

Sometimes though, after a few days of Pad Thai and Fried Pork, a hamburger is just the thing!

Construction work continues at Wat Ket – we think that they might be polishing the brass top but we’ll soon find out.  We see workers at the very top of the scaffolding.

Today as we walked through, we saw a colorful group of visiting monks.

I ventured out to take a Yoga Class at a nearby small studio.  It was taught mostly in Thai but with enough English for me to follow along.  It was an extremely challenging class but I’ll return for more and will take Larry along for the fun!  The class cost $7.64 for a one-hour session.

This evening we went to Arcobaleno, a favorite Italian Restaurant for dinner.  On the walk back, we couldn’t pass by the Wat without checking out the evening scene.  The Temple at night is quite a sight.

Our days in Chiang Mai are passing by quickly!  We’re grateful for the time we spend here.