Arrivederci Neptune!

In the 1990’s I visited Italy with my Mom.  We were on a tour riding a bus from town to town and one of the lunch stops was in Bologna.  This statue of Neptune was what we remembered years later.  He stands in the Piazza Del Nettuno and is quite an impressive figure – seeing him again brought back a happy memory of time spent with Mom.

Piazza Del Nettuno

Our time in Bologna has gone by quickly but in that short time we’ve eaten much delicious food!  For lunch today we revisited Trattoria Da Cesari restaurant we liked from our first trip to Bologna several years ago.  Evening reservation spots were filled so we took the first available spot and arrived for lunch when they opened at 12:30 today. Porcini mushrooms are in season, a good reason to try porcini mushroom flan;

Mushroom Flan-More Delicious Than it Looks!

…pasta with porcini mushrooms and tortellini in brodo (no mushrooms but delicious broth).   Da Cesari is a family-run trattoria with excellent service and great food.  By the time we finished, the place was packed and they were turning people away.

Trattoria Da Cesari

Gelato is a highlight of any trip to Italy and this small shop didn’t disappoint.  Favorite flavors were Cioccolato del Santo and Pistacchio di Bronte.

Gelato Here!

The flower shop across the alleyway has some lovely blooms!

Flowers in the Arcade

We walked to the train station to buy tickets for our next stop.    Sunday we take take a train to Pesaro and then a bus to Urbino.

Ticket Line at the Rail Station

We could easily spend a couple more days here but it’s time to move on. Fingers crossed and hoping we make all of the connections!  Tomorrow (September 25) is a big day in Italy as it’s Election Day. We’ll be watching the results!

 

 

Why Bologna?

Bologna is a small city in the Emilia Romagna region with an interesting history and lots of character.  In the center are Due Torri (two towers); towers that lean, just like the famous Tower of Pisa!  The streets “fan out” from this central point and the towers make good landmarks for finding our way around the city.

Leaning Towers

When we walked to dinner in a far away neighborhood we used this tower to navigate our way back to the city center.

Tower at Dusk

Cars are banned in some parts of the historic city center and the 22 miles of streets bordered by arcades make Bologna easily walkable – the covered walkways provide shade in the summer and protection when it rains (in the forecast for tomorrow!)

Arcade Via San Stefano

Today we took a tour of the University library led by a young graduate student from Poland.  The library is a fantastic space!

Palazzo Poggi (University Library)


Students who studied at the University of Bologna include Dante, Copernicus, Fellini and Umberto Eco.

Bologna is known for food…shops with meats, cheeses and pastries, like these cherry tarts, are on every  corner!

Last night, we walked 20 minutes from the city center to this rustic Trattoria Da Vito.

Trattoria da Vito

The pumpkin filled tortellini in sage and butter was the perfect meal along with roasted vegetables and a huge portion of lasagna.

Pumpkin Tortellini with Butter and Sage

So, those are just a few reasons we really enjoy Bologna!  We’ll be here one more day before we head to our next stop, Urbino.

We’re recovering from jet lag a settling into La Dolce Vita!  We agree that…

Buonasera Italia!

We landed in Paris yesterday afternoon and after a short layover, we took a two hour flight to Bologna, Italy to begin a new adventure!  Our plan is to visit a few places that we know and appreciate (Bologna, Orvieto, and Rome) plus the Le Marche region (also called “The Marches.”) which is new to us.

The Marches region which runs along the eastern Adriatic Coast is one that we’ve wanted to visit for quite some time – it’s been called a less-traveled Tuscany.

For transport, we’ll use a combination of trains, buses, and a rental car which we’ll pick up at the Ancona Airport in a few days.  We’ve had to reorganize a part of our original  itinerary due to devastating heavy rainfall and flooding in Senigallia last week.  With no further hiccups, this trip will take us to:

  • Urbino,
  • Fano,
  • Ascoli, and
  • Fermo.

We’ve left a few days unplanned to spend time in places that we discover along  the way.  Our itinerary includes a combination of seaside villages, hill towns and cities.

The maps below shows the Le Marche region:

Our first stop before we travel to Le Marche is Bologna.  It’s  our first full day here and we’re enjoying a chance to practice the Italian that we’ve been learning,  tastes of gelato, and exploring the porticos of this city.  The university here was founded in 1088!

Evening in Bologna

Our room at Albergo delle Drapperie is small, but the location on a pedestrian street with a pastry shop and a fruit market make up for piccolo space.

We’re having a great time so far…if you’d like to follow along, just come back to this link every day or two….we hope to post some more photos along the way!

Ciao!
Sharon and Larry

 

 

Lively Athens!

We’re amazed!  Athens is much more vibrant, restaurants and shops more upscale, than we remember from our last visit here.  Restaurants are creatively decorated and life here takes place mostly out of doors at this time of year in a very festive way!

Colorful Restaurant Scene – Athens, Greece

We visited our favorite deli/restaurant from previous visits called  “Karamanlidika by Fanis”.  The restaurant specializes in salads, cheeses, cold cuts, and a unique complimentary dessert.

Creamy Yogurt with Carrots and Honey

This morning we each took an online proctored Covid test in the hotel room.  It was very angst-producing but we each “passed” with negative results.   We’ve uploaded our results to the Delta Airlines App so if all goes as planned, we’ll get to take our direct flight home Wednesday!

Proctored Test

It’s been an excellent adventure but we miss family, friends and our routine at home!  Take care all!

Sweet Taverna – One of Many!

 

From the Calm of Pylos…

Karalis Beach Hotel Pylos

…to chaos in Athens!

Street Scene Athens

Athens is busy, buzzing and crowded!  Wow! We’ve walked around neighborhoods, visited flea markets, strolled in the National Gardens and eaten our weight in souvlaki!

Greek Guard – Presidential Palace

This evening we took a break from Greek food and found a fun pizza place, Granello.  In addition to pizza we had a colorful and tasty salad of cherry tomatoes, burrata cheese, and pesto!

Salad-Restaurant Granello

We’re staying in the center of Athens in a hotel cleverly named, Central Hotel.  If we lean out our window, we have a view of the Acropolis.  It’s nice to be close to the Metro and shops.

Acropolis – Sunset
Acropolis View – Evening

We’ve been testing these past 3 days and we both continue to test negative for Covid.  Tomorrow will be the real test as we will do the required test to fly on Wednesday.

We are grateful that we’ve been able to safely take a trip like this!  It’s been great fun!

 

Adventure Continues!

We’re still here!  We packed several Covid self tests and we’ve both tested negative each time.  Fingers crossed for the test we take before our flight home!🤞

We are very happy with our hotel choice in Pylos -Karalis Beach Hotel.  It sits right on the water and from our balcony, have a view of Pylos, the clear waters, and the rocky shore below.

Karalis Beach Hotel – Pylos

Today we drove to Voidokilia Beach – in the shape of the Greek letter Omega, it forms a semicircle of dunes.

Voidokilia Beach

From the sandy beach, we followed a rocky path uphill to an archeological site of an Mycenaean tomb.

Mycenaean Grave Site

The seaside village of Gialova is nearby.  There are upscale shops and restaurants right on the beach – after our trek, we stopped for a lunch of Calamari and Greek Salad.  Gialova is very popular in the summer – it’s still early in the season now and not very busy.

Calamari in Gialova, Greece
Colorful Fishing Boat

We’re not eager to leave Pylos but tomorrow we’ll drive 3.5 hours to return the rental car to the Athens Airport.  From there, we’ll take public transportation into the city for a four night stay.

We will miss these glorious sunsets.  It’s beautiful here!

Pylos Setting Sun

 

Continue reading “Adventure Continues!”

Around Pylos, Greece

We arrived here yesterday after the short drive from Koroni.  The water is blue-green and clear – it’s too cool for swimming but we imagine that it’s very busy in the summer.  In the photo below, you can see how the town is clustered around the water.

A View of Pylos

It’s popular with sailors.  We met a man last night who just sailed in from Sicily – he lives on his boat and travels all over the world!

Like most other Greek towns we’ve visited, the flowers are beautiful and well loved.

Geraniums by the Sea

Pylos is described by Homer in both the Iliad and the Odyssey (Book 17) when Telemachus says:  ”we went to Pylos and to Nestor…and he received me in his lofty house and gave me a kindly welcome…”  He’s describing his trip to Nestor’s Palace.  

Today we drove 30 minutes to the Archeological site of the Palace.  It doesn’t look like this now but it must have been spectacular in its day.  

Depiction of Nestor’s Palace

Today, it looks like this:

Nestor’s Palace Today -The Bathroom!

Many important archaeological remains have been found here including thousands of clay tablets with inscriptions written in Linear B.  It is a really interesting site in a beautiful setting.

There are lots of blooming olive and fruit trees here – we were surprised that this  is the bloom of a lime tree!

Lime

There is a Castle in Pylos – right above our hotel. Tomorrow we’ll make the trek to the top.  We’ll be here a couple more days before we go to our last stop on our mini Greek Odyssey…Athens!

A Monday in Koroni!

It’s peaceful…shops are open in the morning and this fisherman looking out to the sea, displays his morning catch.

Catch of the Day!

We made a loop around town and admired the pretty alleyways.  We’re told that the town gets really busy in the summer but not so much right now.  The weather is mild and we are grateful for the light crowds.

Alleyway in Koroni, Greece

Not every alleyway is pristine, but buildings like these add to the character of the town.

Fixer Upper

We walked to a section of the beach under the castle and took a selfie.

Selfie!

Aphrodite the cat stops by for regular visits…she seems to know when we’re eating tuna and sardines for lunch.

We’ve discovered that turtles live here too!  The owner told us that at least six of these guys roam the property.  We spent a good chunk of the afternoon watching them.  They move around faster than you’d expect.

Larry named this one…Meet Trenton the Turtle!

Turtles in Greece

Shops open again later in the afternoon and we’ll have dinner in town – we’re staying on the outskirts of town but close enough to walk.

Tomorrow we pack again and head for our next stop…Pylos!

A Walk to the Castle!

It’s all uphill but the reward, once you arrive, is a spectacular view!

View from Koroni Castle

We spent a couple of hours exploring the grounds.  Today, most of the interior is occupied by a convent whose chapels, outbuildings,  and flower-strewn gardens cover the site.

Chapel – Koroni Castle

The area can be daunting as stairways with rickety railings lead to the edge of the cliff!

Caution!

But up the stairs we went…

Stairway to Heaven?

It led us to a view of a chapel, wildflowers and the sea.

Chapel Above the Sea

It’s time for dinner and we’ll enjoy a salad and some pink wine.  Cheers!

Greek Tomato Salad

Discovering Koroni!

We didn’t know much about this fishing village when we arrived but guidebooks made it sound like a charming village.  It is!  We’ve walked around the harbor and picked out a taverna for dinner.  Shops are closed until 6:00 so we’ll go back when things are more lively.  It’s a quiet Saturday afternoon.

Steps in Koroni, Greece

We are in the southwest peninsula of the Peloponnese – about 35 miles by road from Kalamata.

To Kalamata!

We are staying at Pelagia Apartments – right above the Gulf of Messina.  The apartment has everything we need.  Our host, Antonis welcomed us with a glass of homemade lemonade and a bottle of olive oil.  This is the apartment building;

Pelagia Apartments

And, our view of the sea.

Sea View – Kitchen Window

It’s a 5-minute walk to the main part of town.  There is a grocery store, hardware store, bakeries , shops with tourist knickknacks and a jumble of houses.  The draw here is the long sandy beach and fish tavernas along the harbor.

Koroni Hardware

There is a Venetian Castle in Koroni.  Building started in 1206 and its walls still stand.  Today, it shelters the convent of Timiou Prodromou.  We’ll explore it tomorrow.

Koroni Castle

The sea breezes are  cool and this apartment comes with a sweet cat named Aphrodite!

Aphrodite!

This will be a nice place to hang out for the next couple of days.