Month: April 2019

Larry and I are learning more about the difficult history of Warsaw. We visited The Jewish Historical Institute and learned of heroic efforts by people living in the Jewish Ghetto (1939-1944) to document, preserve, and archive accounts of events taking place at that time. Documents were hidden in various containers, in many places around the city. This milk can, filled with historical accounts, was discovered many years later.

We also visited the Warsaw Uprising Museum which is dedicated to the Warsaw Uprising of 1944. It’s worth visiting but an intense experience.

On a lighter note, we had a fun dinner at Restaurant Honoratka. It is said to have been favored by Chopin. As a bonus, a lovely young pianist played Chopin pieces while we ate dinner.

This display of fruit at the entrance looks real but is actually plastic. It photographs like a still-life painting.

We tried the traditional Polish honey-flavored brandy which is served warm in ceramic mugs like the one below.

Another traditional food is apple cake. It was so delicious that my enthusiasm caused me to flip my paper napkin into the candle. Flames ensued and the wicker bread basket caught on fire as well. A quick waiter came to the rescue the flames were quickly put out.

Chopin, apple cake, brandy, and a flaming breadbasket made for an exciting meal!

Madame Curie was from Warsaw. We missed seeing her Museum but visited her statue overlooking the Vistula River.

Warsaw has grown on us. We are impressed by the strength and resilience of Polish people – especially the citizens of Warsaw. Pre-war Warsaw was sometimes called “The Paris of Central Europe” but it was almost totally destroyed during World War II. Citizens have rebuilt the city to its former glory.

This is the street where we’re staying – Hotel Le Regina is on the left.

Tomorrow we pack again to take the train to our next stop – Toruń!

Note: Thank you to Ela for providing excellent suggestions for foods to eat, restaurants to try, and places to visit in Warsaw! They were invaluable!

Our train from Wroclaw arrived in Warsaw just in time for rush hour. Whew! The Metro Station was very crowded and the day hot, but Larry managed to buy Metro tickets and we were on our way! Once we dropped off our luggage, we walked to Warsaw’s Old Market Square which looks a little like Wroclaw’s Old Town Market Square! The statue in the middle is of a mermaid – an image on Warsaw’s Coat of Arms.

Continuing on from the Old Town is a walk along the pedestrian-friendly Royal Way. Warsaw is a huge, grand city which was almost totally rebuilt after World War II. It has a complicated history – one we hope to learn more about while we’re here.

We’re happy with our choice of Hotel Le Regina as a place to stay – the breakfast however, costs an outrageous $33.00 per person! Instead of breakfast at the hotel we found a very nice cafe nearby. This breakfast (salmon, poached eggs, toast and coffee) cost a much more reasonable price of $7.50!

Today had a great day at the National Museum with works of Polish artists and artifacts from Polish history.

This is an etching of a former Polish King,

and cleverly displayed in a case nearby is regalia, similar to the robe, crown and orb shown in the image above.

The medieval religious art was more graphic than we are used to seeing with many carved pieces including these wooden carved pieces depicting the scene of a nearly life-sized Jesus carrying the cross.

We liked the painting by Wojciech Weiss (1909.)

And the real thing!

Flowers in a Vase – Warsaw Cafe

Yesterday the temps were hot – above 80 degrees and today it’s barely 60 degrees outside! Rain is in the forecast but we hope to explore more of Warsaw tomorrow! It’s a BIG city!

When we added Wroclaw to our itinerary, we had few expectations. In doing research, it was one city that people liked a lot. We didn’t imagine that there would be so many things to do!

Like, for example, a visit to a beautiful Japanese Garden!

Japanese Garden – Wroclaw, Poland

Or that we could spend a day at the Zoo with lions, tigers, bears and Larry’s favorite- meerkats (seen but not photographed!)

Also giraffes!

We’ve had a few cool, blustery days here but springtime has arrived and lilacs and rhododendron are in bloom!

Even with 4 nights here, there are still things we’d like to do! We didn’t get to the National Museum, we didn’t attend a performance of the opera or to hear the Wroclaw Philharmonic and we’ll miss the Jazz Festival by one day!

We feel that Wroclaw (pronounced Vrots-swaf) has a lot to offer, yet, at times we are frustrated by the lack of a really good tourist map or comprehensive guide book.

So, we’ll look for a better guidebook and have a list of things to do if we’re lucky enough to visit again!

Tomorrow we’ll take a 4-hour train ride to our next stop – Warsaw!!

We’re wondering why more people don’t visit Wroclaw! It has lots to offer casual travelers!

The Old Town Square is beautiful at night and seating at outdoor restaurants line the square.

There is lots of green space and walking/biking paths that run along the Oder River.

There are many upbeat and casual pub/like dining options like this one called Doctor Bar.

We’ve found healthy food options –today’s lunch was delicious tomato soup and a beetroot sandwich.

Finding a self-service laundromat took us on another type of adventure off-the-beaten path. We had a good experience at this one!

Wroclaw is an easily walkable city but there is also an efficient tram and bus system.

Our time in Poland has been very pleasant! Compared to other destinations, fewer people speak English but it hasn’t been an issue for us so far. The cities we’ve visited are very clean, the prices inexpensive with plenty of attractions to keep us busy. Tomorrow we plan to check out the Zoo and Japanese Gardens! More to explore in Ole Wroclaw!

Main Square – Wroclaw, Poland

Our Lonely Planet Guide says “Everyone loves Wroclaw” and we can understand why! It has lots of character, the architecture is unique, and there is quite a lot to see. It’s the fourth-largest City in Poland and has a University with 130,000 students.

We are staying just outside the Old Town at Hotel Europeum.

Today we took a self-guided walking tour starting at the Church of St. Mary Magdalene with a statue honoring Pope John Paul II who is from Krakow.

Then past Wroclaw University and on to the Hala Targowa Market. Inside there is a wide selection of local cheeses, produce, and flowers.

Later we visited the Museum of Architecture housed in a 16th-century former Monastery. We saw a photography exhibit of the damaged buildings in Wroclaw post-WW II – it’s stunning to see visual images of the destruction.

We also viewed an exhibition of stained glass including this one with an image of Madonna and Child based on an Albrecht Durer engraving.

We were impressed with the beautiful cloister garden in the center of the museum.

The weather is breezy and brisk. We have two more days to explore…So far, we’re happy here!

We’ve had a fine time in Krakow but it’s time to head to the rail station for our 3 hour trip to Wrocław.

Sharon at one of the Gates entering the Old Town.

For Easter dinner we made advance reservations at a restaurant called Pod Aniolami. The restaurant was unique, the food delicious and reasonably priced. We had a chance to try the Polish red wine which was very good.

Flowers at Restaurant Pod Aniolami.

Many of the museums are closed for the Easter holiday so we haven’t had a chance to check out local art or many historical sights. Shops are open though and we’ve been admiring the beautiful Polish pottery.

Today is Easter Monday and still a holiday in Poland. We’ve learned of a custom where people throw water on each other today. We’ll be on the lookout!

Rain isn’t in the forecast yet, it’s raining outside! Either way, local custom or water from the sky…we might get wet today.

Now, off to do final packing and make our way to the rail station!

Cheers!

Krakow is a clean and elegant city! The Town Hall Tower on the Main Square is quite impressive!

Many people around the city today are carrying Easter baskets which they will take to the church to be blessed. We didn’t have our own basket but liked this one filled with lamb-shaped cookies for sale at the Easter Market.

Even the bridges here are artfully decorated!

We crossed this bridge to visit the Podgorze neighborhood. This is where the Nazis forced Krakow’s Jews into a ghetto in 1941. A Polish Catholic pharmacist named Taduez Pankiewicz heroically helped and hid Jews in his pharmacy. Today there is museum (a reproduction of the original) called Pharmacy Under the Eagle. Interactive exhibits tell his story and also the stories of many who were forced to live here. In the photo below, Larry is standing behind the counter and under the eagle.

We were encouraged to try a zapiekanki – a toasted baguette with toppings. Larry liked his with mushrooms, sausage, and smoky mountain cheese.

Pierogi, pizza, pig knuckle, and pastries! We’ve eaten too many dangerously delicious treats! Last night we headed for a restaurant called Chimera for an infusion of veggies. This meal plus beer and wine was $12.00!

We’ve had interesting days and met some interesting people including Rhodes Scholar students from Oxford University in the UK –one of them from Canada and the other from Tupelo, Mississippi! They are on holiday break and are traveling in Poland.

All is well!

So far the weather has been very nice – clear, sunny days and crisp, chilly evenings.

Krakow is a popular tourist destination. Florianska Street runs through the center of the Old Town and is bustling with locals, tourists and walking tours given in many languages.

We’ve enjoyed spending time in the Easter Market. The photo below is a view of the market, a giant Easter egg and St. Mary’s Church.

Our first meal in Krakow was a sampling of Polish food at the Easter Market – braised pork knuckle, traditional pierogi, and smoky cheese with cranberry sauce!

The pierogi – filled dumplings – are especially delicious! We like the traditional with cheese and potato and those filled with spinach and feta. Like a Chinese pot sticker, pierogi can be either steamed or fried.

Milk Bars are restaurants that are great for an inexpensive, cafeteria-style lunch. We tried Bar Mleczny shown above.

Below is a photo of our lunch at the Milk Bar. A hearty meal of mashed potatoes, pork goulash and a salad combo of carrot, cabbage, and beet. Enough to share for the price of $4.00!

We couldn’t resist one of these big glazed donuts filled with wild-rose flavored marmalade. They’re pretty good but we’ll have to try a few more before we decide if we really like them. 😊

These stands selling bagel-like rings called obwarzanki are all over town. They make a great, inexpensive snack.

In addition to checking out the food options here, we’ve visited the Cloth Hall Market, Wawel Cathedral, Wawel Castle, and Kazimierz, the Jewish neighborhood.

Krakow is a very pleasant city with lots to see, do, and taste!

We’ve arrived safely in Krakow, caught the city bus into town, and found our hotel without too much difficulty!

Our room at Pod Polski Hotel is comfortable and cozy.

The afternoon temps are in the 60 degree range and it’s just beginning to look like spring here. This view of Planty Park shows a forsythia in bloom. The Park is a lovely feature of Krakow – it forms a 2.5 mile ring around the Old Town.

Evening temps are in the 40’s and Larry left his jacket in the Dusseldorf Airport so, the first task was to find an inexpensive replacement. Finding just the right jacket at the right price, gave us a good orientation to the Old Town. We found a reasonable option at this modern shopping mall. Just like a mall in the USA!

Galeria Krokawska

Time for dinner here…we’re looking for cheap eats at the Easter Market.

We like Krakow very much and look forward to exploring other parts of this cool city!

Greetings!

It’s been 7 years since we visited any of the Baltic countries.  We’ve long been curious about travel in Poland and decided that it’s time to check it out!  We’ll spend nearly 3 weeks zigzagging northerly beginning with the Krakow in the south and ending with Gdansk in the north.  Our plan is to travel by train and bus rather than renting a car.  We’ll use each destination as a base for day trips.

On Tuesday, our flight will take us non-stop from Atlanta to Dusseldorf, Germany where we’ll have a short layover before we catch a flight (one hour and 45 minutes in length) from Dusseldorf to Krakow.

Our itinerary looks like this:

Krakow-5 nights

Wroclaw-4 nights

Warsaw-4 nights

Torun-2 nights

Gdansk-5 nights

We’ve reserved hotels in each city.

 

We’ll be in Krakow for Easter and Passover and hope to experience some of the traditions surrounding these holidays.  Krakow is majority Catholic (87.2 percent according to Wikipedia) but there is a lively Jewish quarter called Kazimierz.

We’re especially looking forward to the Easter Market in Krakow where we’ve read that wooden stalls in the Market Square sell decorated Easter eggs, baskets, tablecloths, gingerbread hearts, cheeses, sausages, hot spiced wine and  much more!

We plan to post every few days as Internet allows.  Follow along if you’d like!

Twoje zdrowie!

(That’s “Cheers” in Polish!)