All in One Day

We had one last day in Cáceres to visit the sites that were closed on Sunday and Monday so on Tuesday, we made the most of it. Our first stop was the Cáceres Museo. It is partially closed for renovations but free. The small museum was sparse on objects but everything is nicely displayed…sometimes less is more. We saw a small collection of prehistoric artifacts, gold jewelry, bronze armor and locally made ceramics. The second floor displayed  some wonderful contemporary art.

We liked this cheerful piece, titled A La Fiesta del Pueblo created in 1916 by Spanish artist Eugenio Hermosillo Martinez.

Cáceres Museum

And this one titled Turner y La National Gallery by Equipo Cronica. It seems as if we are looking down the hallway when in fact, it’s the painting.

Painting by Equipo Cronica, 1980

This pigeon was looking in while we were looking out! Adding that pigeons are a big nuisance here – a city with many outdoor dining options and too many pigeons looking for leftovers.

Checking Out the Art

One of the main attractions here is an underground cistern which was unfortunately closed for renovations.

The 15th-century Gothic Cathedral of Santa Maria was our next stop. It has a prominent place in the city and is beautifully lit at night.

Santa Maria Cathedral

The bell tower is one of the prominent features. We walked to the top for a view of the city.

Cáceres Cathedral Belltower

Inside, Gothic style archways and a beautifully carved wooden alterpiece are especially impressive. The well-done audio guide highlighted the important  features of the cathedral.

Santa Maria Cathedral

One of our favorite sights was the Cáceres Arabian House Museum. A local resident bought the building in the 1960’s and made it his residence. During a construction project he discovered the remains of an Arab dwelling erected on an ancient Roman site which dated back to the 12th century. His dream was to make it a house museum – which took him fifteen years to complete. He did extensive research to discover more of Caceres’ ancient past. Now, his children have taken over his endeavor and continue to open the museum to any curious travelers who pass by.

Entryway Arab House Museum
Arab House Museum
Tea Room Arab House Museum

Our last full day in Caceras was interesting and adventure-filled but it was time to move on.

This morning we picked up our rental car and drove 2.5 hours to Evora, Portugal. It’s been many years since we visited Portugal and Evora is a new destination for us!  We are looking forward to more adventures!

Around Town

It was a busy weekend in Cáceres but a very quiet Monday morning with few people on the streets and many of the museums and major sites closed.  We walked to nearby Botanicc Grand Cafe for good coffee and a bowl of yogurt with granola.

Yogurt and Granola at Botanicc in Cáceres, Spain

After breakfast we picked up a few things at the Tambo Grocery Store. Just inside the front door is a display of freshly caught fish…even though we are a bit far from the sea.

Seafood at the Tambo Grocery Store

After our errands were done, we set out for the Old Jewish Quarter of Cáceres  (Barrio de San Antonio). It is described as a peaceful, centuries-old neighborhood of narrow cobbled streets and whitewashed houses hidden just behind the Moorish city walls.

Narrow Passageway to the Old Jewish Quarter

The neighborhood has whitewashed walls and lovely flowers along the pathways.

Old Jewish Quarter
Spring Flowers

We visited the small chapel of The Ermita de San Antonio which stands on the site where the Jewish community’s early synagogue once stood. The original synagogue was demolished and this small chapel was built in its place around 1470 — roughly two decades before the expulsion of Jews from Spain in 1492.

The Ermita de San Antonio

Towers near ancient wells just outside the ancient city walls gave us excellent views of the modern city.

Cáceres City View

The days go by quickly! Tomorrow the city museum will be open and we will learn more about this fascinating corner of Spain.

A Peaceful Place

 

 

 

Cáceres, Spain

Our time in Madrid was brief, but we had a chance to rest after a long flight, enjoy a nice dinner, and scope out the most efficient route for our departure from the huge (and currently under renovation) Atocha Rail Station for the next day.

Atocha Train Station- Madrid

Continue reading “Cáceres, Spain”

Arrival Day

We’re in Madrid! The flight was easy, less than eight hours in length and we arrived early. We’ve been in the Madrid Airport several times and it’s always been chaotic with long lines and now new machines that take a photo and your fingerprints. Once we exited we found the 203 Bus that took us to the Atocha Train Station. The price is 5 Euros …  it’s very crowded, (standing room only) packed with people from all over the world and their luggage. Convenient though!

For Future Reference: Bus to City Center or Atocha Station.

The first day of a trip is difficult because of lack of sleep and the 6-hour time difference. We usually take a 2-3 hour rest before we hit the streets. We decided to only spend one night on Madrid ( with some regret) but we are leaving for Caceras tomorrow morning so a hotel near the train station made sense. We like the Only You Hotel with a smallish but very comfortable room.

Only You Hotel Atocha

We found a wonderful Italian Restaurant for dinner near the hotel this evening …we have plenty of time for tapas at the next stops! We’re here, happy, and getting reading for the next stop! Now for more rest and a new day tomorrow!

Adios!

 

One Month in Europe

City Park in Bloom!

The suitcases are out, the passports are tucked in a safe spot, and we’re ready to go. We are heading off on a month-long spring journey through Spain, Portugal, and France! 

We’ll be traveling by train, bus, and rental car. Our itinerary includes one night in Madrid, 4 nights in Cáceres, Spain; 4 nights in Evora, Portugal; 3 nights in Tavira, Portugal; 4 nights in Cadez, Spain; 4 nights in Seville, Spain; 5 nights in Malaga, Spain; and 6 nights in Strasbourg, France.

We’re returning to a few favorite cities, but we’ve also left plenty of time for cities and sights we’ve never seen before. Here’s what we’re excited about:

  • Traveling at a Slow Pace: Having 30-plus days allows us to actually breathe, sip our wine a little longer, and wander without a frantic itinerary.

  • The Spring Bloom: There is nothing quite like April and May in Southern Europe—the weather is warming up, and the crowds haven’t quite peaked yet.

  • The Best of Both Worlds: Revisiting favorite cities feels like visiting an old friend, while the new stops keep the sense of adventure alive.

We’ll be sharing photos and stories as we go. For now, we’re just focusing on making sure everything fits in the carry-on.

Next stop: The Airport!

Last Full Day in CDMX

We can hardly believe that we’ve been in Mexico City for two weeks. We are looking forward to returning home and to getting back to our regular routine but we’ve had a great time!

For our last day here, we took the metro to the Ciudadela (citadel) neighborhood in the southwest corner of the historic center of Mexico City. In the park across the street from the market, people were taking salsa dance classes (not shown but fun to watch).

Ciudadela Neighborhood Park

The Ciudadela Market is a traditional Mexican market that specializes in Mexican handcrafts and folk art.  It was established just before the 1968 Summer Olympics to promote Mexico’s cultural heritage. There are about 350 vendors, mostly small business owners.  The market has an overwhelming selection of handcrafts including clothing, furniture, jewelry, ceramics, rugs, musical instruments and sombreros.

The market is large with several portals or entry points…this is just one. It’s very organized, clean, and vendors are friendly.

    La Ciudadela Market-Mexico City

Nearby, we stopped by a photography gallery in a modernized and reconfigured old building previously called ‘The Citadel’. According to their website, “The Centro de la Imagen (the Center for the Image) is a Mexico City space dedicated just to research, training, analysis, and propagation of photography and photographic images.”

Centro de la Imagen
Gallery Space
Wonderful Exhibition Spaces

The museum is interesting, thought-provoking and free!

We know that not everyone would be happy here. Here are some things that visitors should know about before they come here:

Due to the size of the city, it takes time to get from one place to another. The metro is well-organized and efficient, but, as is true for any large city, it can be confusing and crowded. Ubers can get stuck in traffic so it can be frustrating getting around town. In general, the metro is the preferred alternative, when it can get you where you want to go.

We can’t drink the water from the taps but our apartment has a filtered water tap which is great so we don’t have to buy bottled water every day.

It’s a noisy city but we requested a quiet room on the interior of the building and it has worked great for us.

The air quality in January varies day by day and hour by hour. Some days our throat feels scratchy by the end of the afternoon.

We are careful with food, eating at popular food stalls and reading restaurant reviews for any potential issues. We talked with our physician before we left home and got a prescription of antibiotics in case we needed them, but we didn’t.

We have been very fortunate to have had good weather, no tummy upsets from spicy foods and a cozy place to stay in Mexico City. Each day has been a new adventure and we have walked many steps to make the most of our time in the city. Still, there are many things we missed. One advantage of travel to Mexico is the relatively short (4-hour flight) and the one-hour time difference. SO, we plan to return! We like cities and this one has many things to see and do!

We keep this blog as a way to remember where we’ve been and are happy to share it. If you’ve been following along, we appreciate that you are interested! Thank you!

Adios until next time!

Sharon and Larry

 

 

 

A Day Trip to Teotihuacán

Teotihuacán Pyramid of the Sun

It took some time to get to Teotihuacán from Mexico City. We took an Uber from our apartment to the Central de Autobuses del Norte, the enormous bus station in north CDMX.  We bought our tickets, and with four minutes to spare, we boarded bus to the site of the pyramids and were on our way. Happily, the bus was air conditioned and comfortable for the hour and 15 minute trip. We didn’t do a lot of research before we arrived…here’s how ChatGPT describes this archeological site ( and I can’t think of a better way to describe it.)

Rising from the high valley northeast of Mexico City, the pyramids of Teotihuacan feel both monumental and mysterious. Built nearly two thousand years ago by a civilization whose name we no longer know, the site is anchored by the vast Pyramid of the Sun and Pyramid of the Moon, aligned along the grand Avenue of the Dead. These structures were not tombs but ceremonial mountains—carefully planned to mirror the surrounding landscape and the movement of the cosmos. Walking the avenue today, you sense how architecture, ritual, and power converged here, making Teotihuacan one of the most influential cities in the ancient Americas and a place that still inspires awe long after its builders disappeared.”

Pyramid of the Moon

Along the paths between the pyramids, vendors were selling trinkets…

from this persistent salesman…

Pathway to the Temple of the Moon

we settled on a turtle-shaped ocarina that could be used on a museum tour.

Ocharina

The day was hot and there weren’t many shade trees…we felt the heat and the altitude, so we didn’t linger in one spot for long.  Along the way, this tree looked especially pretty standing all alone.

Some Shade!

When we left the site, we hopped on the wrong bus for our return to the city. It delivered us to the right place back in the city but without air conditioning and with very annoyingly loud, repetitive music.

These archeological sites are absolutely fascinating and worth the trip…perhaps better enjoyed on a cooler day.

One interesting thing we saw on our bus trip was this system of cable cars. These are not tourist attractions but part of the public transportation system.

Cablebus, México City

We have enjoyed many wonderful meals here…last night we took a break from tacos and went to a down-home Italian restaurant with delicious pastas and lots of charm. We enjoyed a cocktail that was a little bit Italian (Aperol) and a little bit Mexican (Mescal).

Cheers!

 

A Day in Coyoacán

Coyoacán, a historic neighborhood 7 miles south of Centro Historico, was the home of many famous artists and intellectuals. It’s described as having a “bohemian spirit with artsy cafes, shady parks and plazas, and excellent museums”. We specifically went there to see Museo Frida Kaldo. It’s a trek…we took the subway stop near our apartment to the end of the line and the walked about 45 minutes to the neighborhood where the museum is located.

On the Way to Coyoacan
MuseoCoyoacán Frida Kahlo

The Frida Kahlo Museum (Casa Azul) is very popular, so we purchased our tickets online before we left Atlanta. We had a 1:15 pm reservation but that seems to be a very popular time as the museum was extremely crowded. In spite of that, we enjoyed seeing her family home, her collection of Mexican art and artifacts, her own paintings, and the beautiful gardens.

Gardens Casa Azul
Kitchen Casa Azul
Frida’s Studio
Frida’s Creative Space
Frida’s Funeral Urn
Frida Self-Portrait

Kahlo had a complicated life…here’s one description to summarize:  “Frida Kahlo was a Mexican artist who transformed lifelong pain—physical, emotional, and political—into fiercely personal self-portraits that explored identity, gender, and Mexican nationalism.”

Viva la Vida by Frida Kahlo

Even a couple of large scoops of ice cream didn’t prepare us for an Uber ride through the chaotic streets of Mexico City in rush-hour traffic.  (we won’t try that again!)

Ice Cream in Coyoacan-Viva la Vida!

A Day in the City Center

A couple of days ago, we took the subway on our way to the city center and made a rookie mistake…there are pink signs and barriers to show that the first few cars are designated for women and children only. It didn’t take long to realize that Larry was the only male in the car…we got off at the next stop and changed. It is a nice feature of the CDMX Metro.

Women and Children Only

We went to the Palacio de Belles Artes metro stop to see the magnificent structure with an Orange-topped dome. It houses the Museum of Fine Arts, the National Architecture Museum, Ballet Folklorico,  the National Opera and many other cultural offerings.

Palacio de Belles Artes
Palacio de Bellas Artes

Across the street is the Palacio Postal, Mexico City’s main Post Office. It was  designed by an Italian architect and a Mexican engineer.

Palacio Postal- Mexico City

A walk through Alameda Park, which sits behind the arts center…

Alameda Central Park

…led us to the Museo Mural Diego Rivera to see his famous mural titled “Dreams of a Sunday Afternoon in Alameda Central Park.”  The mural painted in 1947-1948 includes images of important historical figures.

The photo from the floor above the mural shows the scope and size:

Rivera Mural from Above

The photo below shows a closeup of just one section of the mural:

Museo Mural Diego Rivera

The close-up shows that Diego painted images of himself in the murals…and also Frida Kahlo (standing next to the skeleton) and Diego (boy with the umbrella.)

Detail…Diego Rivera Mural

…and one more close-up photo of a Diego self-portrait (he’s the boy in the hat eating a sandwich).

Rivera Self-Portrait

Under some shade trees near the museum, men were playing some very serious chess matches with onlookers watching every move.

Serious Chess

Flower stands are abundant and flowers are inexpensive. We see many people making their way home with a big bouquet. It’s a nice touch. Mexico City is full of parks, flower stalls, friendly people and good food.

Grande Bouquet

 

Exploring more of CDMX!

We’ve been busy! Each day we walk five miles or more exploring neighborhoods, checking out restaurants, and visiting sights. We still have a week to go with activities penciled in for most days. One nice feature of Mexico City is the many lovely parks with meandering pathways and places to sit and relax. Plaza Uruguay is very nearby…we spent part of Sunday morning there people watching. This evening the park was brightly lit and a group people were taking a fitness class.

Plaza Uruguay – Polanco

We are enjoying the delicious food possibilities from pastries to tacos, seafood, and even burgers.

Tacos!
Tacos and Sauces

A wildly popular event here is Lucha Libre…a theatrical and acrobatic style of wrestling. We bought tickets in advance for a Sunday match and took an Uber to Arena Mexico.  The traditions and rules are more complicated than we could comprehend at our first match but we had great fun. The arena was packed and the roar of the crowd was ear-splitting (we took ear plugs.) Competitors were dressed in brightly colored costumes and the (staged) fights were quite athletic.

Mexico Arena Pre-Match
Competitors!
Lucha Libredors

It’s a wild and crazy scene but well-organized for the large crowds. We were happy we went!

Lily’s?

We did a lot of wandering today in the Roma and Condesa neighborhoods with more parks, restaurants, and shops.  Looking for places we might like to stay for a future visit. We are weary but happy.